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El Nino is a fantastic route that combines hard moves through a bulge followed by a technical slab for a finish. It starts from the base of the small, dirty looking pool. It can be done in two pitches or one long pitch. Two bolt hangers are currently missing from the first pitch.
Here are the directions for doing the route without the first two bolt hangers. Scramble up and to the left along the edges of a slab. Head back to the right beneath a bulging headwall over loose ground to find a bolt on the right side of the top of the slab. If the first two bolt hangers are replaced, climb straight up through the slab instead of going left.
Scramble up to a two bolt station beneath the headwall. The initial moves to get on the headwall are the crux. Climb up into an undercling and do an awkward reach through to swing into a lie back on a big flake that faces the opposite direction. Continue wandering up a wonderful slab to anchors at 100 feet from the pool.
The headwall is protected by welded cold shuts, which are getting a little rusty. Enjoy.
A rack of quick draws will sufice. Take a couple of long slings and a 200 foot rope to make life easier.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 25, 2008
All three hangers on the first pitch (approach slab) are now missing, but you can always use wired nuts to protect, or just go around on the left as Julian describes.