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Quartzite Wasteland
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Charcoal Burger Daydream T,S 
Down South T 
El Lagarto Borracho T,S 
Flip Ya Lid S 
Interstate Love Song T,S 
Left Project T 
Loss of Innocence S 
Something From Nothing T,S 
Twig and Berries T,S 

El Lagarto Borracho 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mike & Joy Schneiter, May 16, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 8, 2008

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FA of El Lagarto Borracho at the Quartzite Wastela...

Description 

“The Drunken Lizard.” This climb weaves back and forth, like “a drunken lizard," challenging your route-finding skills to ascend this at its easiest grade.

Begin by climbing on face features while plugging gear into a vertical crack at the start. Pass the first, and largest roof on the left. Above, negotiate your way through a few more difficult sections and a couple smaller roof features while using a mix of bolts and horizontal seams for protection.

Save a #2 Camalot for the top and be ready for a few “heady” sections of climbing above gear and/or bolts.

Location 

Located just right of Charcoal Burger Daydream on the tall, south-facing face.

Protection 

Six bolts and double set of cams to #2 Camalot.


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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 9, 2008

This felt significantly harder than Charcoal Burger Daydream, if that route is 10d, this is probably 11a or b. Bigger pump factor on this one....
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2008

The ratings on these are tough to figure out. My wife, the eternal sandbager, thought this was around .10c. But, she also thought Charcoal Burger Daydream was harder because of a long move through the roof, which for us tall guys was no big deal. So, go figure. I still think this is in the 10d-ish range because there's no hard moves and instead it's just got some pump factor. Maybe you're just a little out of shape, huh BJ? Now that 30 is creeping up on you?

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