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El Hoyito 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Grundon Karla Moya
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: Mark Grundon on Jan 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Crux down low. There is a fixed draw for the crux clip. The crux is very height dependent. Probably a harder grade for shorter people.


To the left of Slippery Down Under. Right of Devils Cabana Boy.


bolts on fixed chain draw

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By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Dec 21, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar
By BrianWS
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Unique is right... not so sure about how much I actually enjoyed the route, though. The rock looks and feels like it has been covered in a layer of fossilized candle wax.

The crux is extremely height dependent, requiring a full span move from an undercling to a pocket, followed by a dicey clip. Hard as nails for the short, and apparently no cakewalk for the tall either.
By Jake Dickerson
From: Lander, WY
Jan 9, 2016

Honestly, I can't say I was psyched on this route. The first four bolts were fun but then it low angle edging climbing up slippery smooth rock.

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