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East Gate Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Blood Drive T 
Bloodline T 
Bloodsport T 
Cabeza de Pollo T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
Clay, Like Dirt S 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Narrow Horizons T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Purple Horizons T 
Ripping Wall, The T 
Sidekick T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Speed Of Life T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

El Guapo 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99
New Route: Yes
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 211
Submitted By: drewford on Mar 29, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: new routes on the East Gate

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.


Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo


Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed

Comments on El Guapo Add Comment
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By tenesmus
May 22, 2008

Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out.
By tenesmus
Nov 29, 2010

I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.

Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat.

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