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El Grungo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Abbink, Hill
Season: Spring
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: sean peters on Jan 15, 2015

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

El Grungo is much easier than its cousin several hundred feet south, The Dutchman's Gold. Both are exciting and fun, I would climb El Grungo before Dutchman's Gold to warmup and prep. the mind.

Pitch one climbs up brushy gully/crack to good ledge.

Pitch two is a semi-long traverse out left (south) to a loose flake that is fairly large. I think we belayed at the base of flake.

Pitch three climbs the flake and continues above on solid rock to a belay wherever you want to stop.

The remaining pitches continue upward and pass some short stemming moves, over shrubs and some short faces before reaching the summit.

The crux is climbing the loose flake and a few moves above but I remember good gear on good rock.

Location 

The route begins closer to the northern end of the Needle on the east face. There is an obvious notch that separates the main needle and a smaller formation to the north.

Hike Bluff Springs Trail to Terrapin Trail and find your own way to the base.

Down climb or rappel back to packs, standard descent for the Needle.

Protection 

I think we brought our standard rack, gear up to #5 and probably some doubles of stuff. I recall small or medium gear for the flake pitch.


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