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El Gato Monte 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Evan Howell, June 2015
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: evan h on Jun 27, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Profile view of the route, prior to bolting and cl...

Description 

This is a short but stout route, which essentially amounts to a roped bouldering problem. I'm settling at a V4, shouldery crux.

Start with some stiff moves off the block, and gain a decent clipping ledge for bolt 2. Decipher the powerful crux, and continue on dynamic 5.11- climbing to bolt 4. A couple careful moves will bring you over the ledge to the anchors. I've scraped a bunch of lichen from the moves to the anchors, but it's still a tad dirty on the final (easier) moves.

This route faces SW and gets afternoon sun in the summer. All other routes on the block will be in the shade at this time.

Location 

This ascends the SW corner of the Mill Creek Block, to the left of The Strike.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of El Gato Monte Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux and upper half. Bolt 4 was added later.
BETA PHOTO: Crux and upper half. Bolt 4 was added later.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower half.
BETA PHOTO: Lower half.

Comments on El Gato Monte Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2016
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jun 27, 2015

A lower start can be done over what looks like some fun bouldering moves, which would add a letter grade or so and definitely up the pump factor. That being said, it's fairly contrived, as you could step left onto the large block at the base of the standard start.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Cool. Nice addition. I have run a TR on a parallel line to the right of EGM and behind the tree that could either start off The Strike or not. The rock is just as bullet as EGM and the line is really logical and independent.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jun 30, 2015

Thanks, Richard. I'm not certain on the grade, as it really does boil down to equating it to a V-grade. The grade might be subjective depending on personal strength/power over a few moves.

I also TR'd a line that extends straight up from your first bolt on The Strike (same line?). I really liked the movement, but it was really wet at the time and would require a good bit of cleaning. Additionally, there's probably some potential for fun link-ups on the Prowler face as well!

I've enjoyed discovering this place recently. The lines on MC Block are all fun and I'm particularly excited about some of the harder lines over at the main crag. Nice work!
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Evan, if you are feeling strong, checkout The Seeker (Sadhaka Yogi) on the Dome. The rock and the movement turned out to be terrific.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 16, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

First impression: very nice route on excellent stone. The crux comes after the second clip and starts to ease up with hands on a good horizontal edge above and left of the second clip. I found myself using several excellent sidepulls right of the bolt line that were not brushed at all, so the intent appears to have to have been to keep more to the left. The sidepulls seemed more user friendly to my fingers. Also, a friable section of blackish rock was broken off standing above the second clip. This revealed another excellent edge but did not change the grade at all.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jul 17, 2015

Cool, Richard, glad you enjoyed it. You're right, I did stay direct and a bit left by doing a sequence that involved a fairly burly, left shoulder move off the high gaston. I experimented with some moves out right, but I have T-Rex syndrome and couldn't make the reaches work for me. If there's a logical sequence, I'll make a point to get back up there with a brush and open up a few more options. Glad to hear there's not a significantly easier sequence at least! Some of the black schist is garbage, so I avoided it for bolting and knocked as much off as possible. Might still be best to belay with a helmet as others explore different sequences.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 17, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Evan, my first look at Gato involved some dangeliforous stuff, and my plan for a return was to brush around the hands and feet I did use, so long as you are okay with this. The fragment I crushed off seemed pretty unique; there is not a lot more to come off. The friable band is very thin and minor.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2015

Absolutely. Brush and clean at will.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think there are two ways to do Gato. Both run 12a, and both are absolutely on the bolt line. The left way may use fewer hand transitions, but come with a strong left shoulder for the burly gaston and strong fingers for a tiny sidepull crimp.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A very nice route that packs really good climbing in a short distance. Excellent rock on this one.
By evan h
From: Denver, CO
Apr 4, 2016

Last summer I placed two quicklinks on each of the anchor rings to promote lowering without wearing the rings (which would require full replacement of the bolt). I returned on Saturday to find them missing. These were obviously placed for a reason, so I'd appreciate it if you can return them. I put time and money into placing them there. Thanks.

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