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El Gallito 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Chris O'Connor on Jul 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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  • Description 

    This route is the 2nd route to the left of Magie Noire.

    Location 

    This is on the Northwest of Stepping Stones.

    Protection 

    4 bolts, chain anchors.


    Comments on El Gallito Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jarthur
    From: Westminster, CO
    Sep 9, 2008

    Pretty sweet route. It definitely puts some air in between you and the bolt below you especially going to the anchors. Just the way I like it.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    May 5, 2012

    Great route. The best part is the super-stem to move right along the bolt line. The crux is hanging on to one of the slopers at the top to clip the anchors. I chose the sloper off to the right.
    By Chris Archer
    May 17, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

    Quality climbing slightly marred by unnecesarily intimidating bolting. Hard to read finish. Felt like 11d on sight; 11b red point when you know where to go.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 17, 2012
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    "Hard to read finish".
    Amen....
    By topher donahue
    May 23, 2012

    The bolting on this used to feel just fine, but I pried off two huge flakes, one before the first bolt, and one before the roof. The climbing is more continuous and safer now, but it does feel kind of sketchy, especially climbing off the ground to the first bolt with a lousy landing. Would the FA crew consider re-bolting the lower half to suit the climb without the massive time-bomb jugs it used to have?

    Seems like adding a low bolt and then lowering the bolt below the roof a few inches so it could be clipped before the tricky stem would set it up nicely.
    By Pinklebear
    May 23, 2012

    Hey Topher: I'm not sure who did the FA (maybe Chris O'Connor, who submitted it, or Bruno Hache?), but anyway my vote would be to move the bolts to make it safer, in line with the rest of this good little sport wall. Thanks for trundling those death blocks--it needed to happen!
    By D@n
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2014

    A lower first bolt and another bolt below the tricky stem would make this route a lot more enjoyable. I'd be happy to do it with the permission of the first ascent party. Anyone know who that might be? Samet?
    By Pinklebear
    Jul 17, 2014

    Hey Dan -- it would be a funner route if less runout. I didn't put it up, no. Maybe Bruno Hache? Or it might have been there before he added his climbs. Not sure....

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