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El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Florian Haenel, Chris Kalman, Austin Siadak
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Chris Kalman on Nov 16, 2016

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Megan Kelly high on the ridge during an early asce...

Description 

One of the most popular beginner routes in Cochamo - most people rap after the 6th pitch, making for a very convenient first climb in the area. Summiting either Pared Atardecer or Cerro Laguna, however, is not to be missed. Both require a bit more "mountain sense" to descend other routes safely.

Read more about El Filo HERE and HERE

I say it's about 1500 feet, but that's base to summit. If you just do the first 6 pitches or so, it's obviously much shorter... maybe 1000 feet.

Route Description:

Cross the creek just upstream of the crossing for pared atardecer, and follow the trail through the woods to the gully. Hike up the gully, following cairns, to base of wall.

P1: Bolted slab, 5.9
P2: Mostly bolted, 5.10, both right and left options exist. Right is dirtier, left tends to be wet. Both are 5.10, and require some small pro (purple and blue tcu sizes, other micros). bring a rack to .75 just to be safe.
Do the first "tree-a-ferrata" up to base of bolted arete, make anchor.
P3: bolted arete, couple pieces of gear for the start. 5 stars. 5.10
P4: bolted arete, move out left onto face eventually, bring #3 (#4 if you're really uncomfortable on cracks can help), belay at bulge in ridge.
P5: Bust out right on slabs to the "Manjar Corner". Bring the full rack. clip a few bolts, take it to the trees. 5.10-
Do the second "tree-a-ferrata" through the woods to a summitish plateau.
P6: Climb a bolted gendarme, 5.7 or 5.8 or something. I think this is the last place you can rap the route.
Move belay along ridge to base of crux pitch.
P7: awkward squeeze to exit move onto slab by bolt, then difficult bolted slab finish. That last bolt was placed after Flo freed it onsight (with shitty gear in the crack below) keep that in mind when you clip that bolt!
P8-10: 4th-5th class ridge traversing. Prob no harder than 5.5 anywhere. About 100m, but if you pitch it out, might be worth doing in 3.

Endless 3rd class takes you up to the col between Atardecer and Tiempo. Go left to summit Atardecer and rap Al Centro (hard to find the raps), or go right to summit Tiempo and rap Doppler Effect (mandatory 4th/5th class downclimbing).

Get more specific beta in the Refugio... Somehow I feel like I may have forgotten a pitch somewhere.

Location 

On La Aleta de Tiburon, the Shark's Fin. Pop up from the bivy boulder onto the clearing above, and look left. The Shark's Fin sticks out really clearly between Atardecer and Laguna. This route climbs the prominent right arete of the fin.

Protection 

I think a single rack to #3 was fine - maybe 12 QD/runners total.


Photos of El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: R Shore following the P4 arete. Pic: NB
R Shore following the P4 arete. Pic: NB
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Ryan on the crux pitch.
Katie Ryan on the crux pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5-star bolted arete pitch. [Photo] Megan Kelly
The 5-star bolted arete pitch. [Photo] Megan Kelly
Rock Climbing Photo: view from pitch 8
view from pitch 8

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