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El Face-o Diablo 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Linus Platt, 1990 (TR)
Page Views: 1,354
Submitted By: grk10vq on Oct 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: El Face-o Diablo

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Aesthetic and clean, El Face-o-Diablo will somehow leave you feeling a little dirty?

    Deceptively difficult! What looks like a walk in the park, climbs more like a mugging. A thin and slippery start greets the unsuspecting climber. Hard to hold on too, the beginning for most will unleash a brutal beating. Thin crimps, shallow side-pulls, awkward feet, and off-balance movement make this more of a battle than a climb. If you can make it to the first bolt, keep your guard up, its not over!

    Most always run as a top-rope, this route can be led, rehearsal is advised as the first bolt is well above the crux moves and about 15-18 feet high.

    Location 

    Set a few feet right of El Cracko Diablo, this route is the clean and cut face with bolts connecting to the same anchor.

    Protection 

    Three bolts and an a shared chain anchor. If top roping, use draws and the bolts which serve as invaluable directionals.


    Comments on El Face-o Diablo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Linus Platt
    Mar 7, 2010

    I did the FA of this on TR in '90
    By John C
    From: Moab
    Mar 29, 2011

    Why is the first bolt on this so high? Seems stupid and dangerous to me
    By Jeremy Steck
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Oct 10, 2011

    As of 10/11, the first bolt is starting to pull out.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015

    A silly line that I found to be difficult and far from fun.

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