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El Dorado S 

El Dorado 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Eric Bluemn on Apr 8, 2017

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Amanda showing how to climb through steep exposure...


P1: From the beach, climb up to a ledge system and traverse right (some rusty/sketchy bolts and threads). There is a two-bolt anchor on a large ledge over the water (15m). P2: From the ledge, continue traversing right until you can gain the obvious weakness in the center of the cliff. Climb steeply through wildly exposed overhanging jugs up the crack to a bolt anchor on a semi-hanging stance (35m, anchor can be backed up with a piece of trad gear). P3: continue up and left on threads and bolts through the fun and thoughtful slab. There is a bolted anchor once you reach flat ground above the slab.


Descend by walking left from the climb to another two-bolt rappel station. Make a short (25m rappel) to another ledge and rap station. From here, rappel 50 meters to the beach. Two ropes required, although there MAY be an option to rappel with an 80m rope and scramble off via easy down climbing in the gully left of the cliff (untested, attempt at your own risk).


Bolted with expansion bolts. Some severely corroded near the water, some have been recently replaced. A light trad rack can be used to back up suspect gear.

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