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El Dorado 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Tom Higgins and Richard Coats, 1963
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: Tradiban on Oct 8, 2014

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Description 

An all gear route with a very interesting second pitch. Starts same as El Monte but head left around the bush and through short crack (topo in the book is a bit off), through some overlaps. Step left around the roof then trend right on lay-backs. With a 70m I get to a perfect belay ledge. The next pitch trended right again and headed for a small bush that is a belay point for El Grandote. There's some slings on the bush and you literally sit in it to belay. With a 70m you can keep moving right and aim for a small over hang of 6in for a semi-hanging belay. Gear is super tricky to get there. Final pitch goes left to start then back right laybacking a right angling roof to finish on easy terrain.

Location 

Starts directly above big tree left of El Monte and right of huge roof.

Protection 

Small stuff helps.


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