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El Curvo 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Scott, Dean Brault
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,748
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Aug 9, 2009

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Jon Mavko stemming at the top of El Curvo. Lots o...

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>


This one is a GEM. 130ft. that involves crystal pulling (big and small), good sequencing, some spicy bolt spacing, and tops it off with stemming (a little bit at the beginning, and some with great exposure at the end). A must do if you've made your way down to the Ravens.


Located on the downhill side of Raven C as seen in the topos of STL II. Starts by stemming into the chimney and follows the bolt line closest to that chimney.


17 bolts to chain anchors. I would describe this as "adventure" sport climbing as some of the bolt spacing is not what you might be used to if you're hitting up Munchkinland or even The Orifice over at The Fortress.

It takes two ropes to get to the ground if you're using a 60M. Not sure if a 70M would do it either.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 10, 2009

With a 60M rope you can lower down to the anchors on El Cuervo which is on the other tower, clip in straight pull your rope, thread, retie, then lower the rest of the way to the ground. It is a bit of a hassle but it is worth it.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

About a third of the way up if you look to the left you can see the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of "El Cuervo" on Raven D that you need to rap to first..

Stellar route, I started wondering whether the stemming at the end was off route but am stoked it's not..

Best to wait until midmorning for shade
By Jimbo
Aug 20, 2009

The stemming at the top and the bottom are all part of the route. You did it like you should. Good on ya.

I wonder if you could lower straight down into the upper part of the chimney with a 70 meter???
By Jimbo
Sep 21, 2009

Did this with a 70 meter rope a few days ago. You can lower into the chimney above the big chockstone and hit terra firma. The belayer needs to be directly under the 1st bolt and paying attention to the end of the rope as there is only a foot or two to spare. We also cleaned all the draws but the last one lowering off the chains with a 70.
By kletterlisa
Aug 30, 2016

What a wonderful climb! Bring enough gear, there are 17 bolts (+2 for the anchors) on this climb.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

One of the best single pitches of climbing I've done anywhere and certainly my vote for the best 5.10 on Lemmon. Bring your 70.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 12, 2017

If your belayer climbs up the chimney you can reach the ledge lowering off with a 70M rope. Be sure and tie a knot in the end of the rope. 80 meter probably works but I haven't tried it.

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