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El Cracko Diablo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,456
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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BETA PHOTO: Matt taking a rest before climbing out from under ...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Haven't led this (so sad). 20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block. Fingers to good jams then move around the block. Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).


    Set of cams and a .5 TCU near the top.

    Photos of El Cracko Diablo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: End of the V-slot.
    End of the V-slot.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top out on El Cracko Diablo
    Nearing the top out on El Cracko Diablo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearly out of the flared chimney on El Cracko Diab...
    Nearly out of the flared chimney on El Cracko Diab...
    Rock Climbing Photo: climber on El Cracko
    climber on El Cracko
    Rock Climbing Photo: Awkward moves at the start
    Awkward moves at the start
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on top section of El Cracko Diablo
    Unknown climber on top section of El Cracko Diablo
    Rock Climbing Photo: El Cracko
    BETA PHOTO: El Cracko
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of Eddie Bruzdzinski
    Photo of Eddie Bruzdzinski
    Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie just cruised up this, pretty good practice f...
    Eddie just cruised up this, pretty good practice f...

    Comments on El Cracko Diablo Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 27, 2015
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 20, 2001
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    The Route seems more awkward than difficult. I found myself a little more knotted up than in your general desert corner.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 25, 2002

    I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 13, 2003

    Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!

    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Mar 15, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack.
    By Holly Barnard
    Mar 29, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.

    Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though.
    By martin kocsis
    Apr 8, 2005
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    marvellous! the sort of route three parties walked past saying "maybe next time...". a word to the wise: you must do this route...when you've done so you'll know why!cheerio!
    By Marty Brenner
    From: Durango, CO
    Oct 13, 2006

    I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!
    By BirminghamBen
    From: Birmingham, AL
    Oct 19, 2008

    Good, solid stone...
    By Skyler Penrod
    Apr 12, 2009

    The crux is definitely at the top of the double cracks. Bear hugging a move or two once you reach the finger crack until you reach the jugs seems to be the way to do it. Great route, fun moves.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 27, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Easier than some 5.8s! Treating the v-groove as an offwidth, ignoring the finger crack except to place gear, makes it almost trivial (gritstone Severe) but it's best to keep moving on the top section.
    By Hendo Henderson
    From: Denver, CO
    Oct 23, 2012

    This route destroyed me. I'm a bigger dude (175lbs 6ft tall) and so I had to do the craziest moves in the flaring offwidth section. Watch out for those small surprise holds that help you get through the offwidth though (they are there). The two cracks up top are a cinch, until the very top were they taper out. Probably the second crux in the climb (besides the insane offwidth section). Not a bad climb, almost threw-up cause it exerted me so much :)
    By Fat Dad
    From: Los Angeles, CA
    Jan 11, 2013

    The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.
    By Megan Henderson
    From: Ogden, Utah
    Jul 10, 2013

    I enjoyed this route even though everyone in our group really struggled on it. I think I had the easiest time in our group (not that it was even remotely easy) because I'm smaller and could fit my lower body into the flared chimney part and actually chimney up it. I barely used the crack in the back except to help balance myself. Can't wait to try it again sometime!
    By Justin Skaare
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 22, 2014

    Rack: 2x .4, 1x .5, 1, 2, 3 BD C4s

    The route was total off-width hell for me. I ended up just jamming my shoulder blades into the flaring crack and smearing up ... not the finger crack fun I was hoping for, but still interesting. I actually enjoyed the rock humping upper cracks.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: California in my Mind
    Feb 27, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    After Flakes of Wrath my next favorite route at Wall Street; a unique climb with fun moves. I feel the bottom half is technically easy (yup, think foot bridging) but rather physical. The upper half is much less physical but seems to become more tenuous the higher you climb.

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