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Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
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Black Crack T,TR 
Corner Man T 
Desperate Reality T 
El Corador  T 
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Temple of the Wind T 
Warm Up, The S,TR 

El Corador  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: C Banks on Feb 16, 2017

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  • Description 

    Short but sweet. About 50' past the start of Desperate Reality, where the corridor begins to widen, climb a right-angling finger crack on the left wall to a sloping ledge capped by a low roof. Shuffle or crawl about ten feet right on the ledge to a stunning splitter that narrows from hands to thin hands to fingers (crux). Scramble up and left to a large belay tree. Descend by looping your rope over the tree and rappelling.

    This route has almost certainly seen prior ascents. I've merely attached a name to the route for the sake of clarification. The first time I climbed it, I discovered that I could stem upward, with hands and feet on opposite walls, in order to place good pro in the initial finger crack. The wide stem reminded me of the famous 100' talll stem box on El Matador at Devil's Tower (although certainly it's much less pumpy on the calves!). The pun contained in the route name occurred to me almost immediately and I liked it so the name stuck. Chris


    At the end of the granite corridor, 50' past the start of Desperate Reality


    Standard rack to 2". Belay at tree. Bring a long sling or cordalette for the anchor. The first half of the route can be pretty tricky to protect.

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