REI Community
search
Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Crack T,TR 
Corner Man T 
Desperate Reality T 
El Corador  T 
Fight Club T 
Fistfighter T,TR 
Kid Gloves T 
Temple of the Wind T 
Warm Up, The S,TR 

El Corador  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: C Banks on Feb 16, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Short but sweet. About 50' past the start of Desperate Reality, where the corridor begins to widen, climb a right-angling finger crack on the left wall to a sloping ledge capped by a low roof. Shuffle or crawl about ten feet right on the ledge to a stunning splitter that narrows from hands to thin hands to fingers (crux). Scramble up and left to a large belay tree. Descend by looping your rope over the tree and rappelling.

    Note:
    This route has almost certainly seen prior ascents. I've merely attached a name to the route for the sake of clarification. The first time I climbed it, I discovered that I could stem upward, with hands and feet on opposite walls, in order to place good pro in the initial finger crack. The wide stem reminded me of the famous 100' talll stem box on El Matador at Devil's Tower (although certainly it's much less pumpy on the calves!). The pun contained in the route name occurred to me almost immediately and I liked it so the name stuck. Chris

    Location 

    At the end of the granite corridor, 50' past the start of Desperate Reality

    Protection 

    Standard rack to 2". Belay at tree. Bring a long sling or cordalette for the anchor. The first half of the route can be pretty tricky to protect.


    Comments on El Corador Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About