El Condor is a beautiful moderate climb that links large knobs, cracks and pockets up a wonderful dark wáter streak. Stellar climbing and position - spaced but excellent gear.
With large positive holds, an experienced and confident 5.7-5.8 leader should be able to keep it together through the more exciting stretches.
P1: Head up easy slab heading for a low angle right facing corner/flake with finger size gear. Lieback up this and then move left to another right facing lieback and arrive at a nice belay ledge with fingers to hand size gear belay. (5.5 ~100 feet)
P2: Straight up to the right side of a long roof, traverse left along the roof with finger size cams along the top edge, mantle and climb up good knobs along the right side of the dark wáter streak. Reach a bolt and head left and up across the wáter streak, up knobs to a committing move to the bottom of the right facing thin flake and finger to hand size cams to the top of the flake. Traverse up and left to a giant knob (feldspar mega-cryst) that can be slung with a slip knotted long sling. Traverse right and up back across the wáter streak runnout to a bolt. Traverse right to a bolted belay. (5.7R ~130 feet)
P3: Head straight up smaller positive knobs to a horizontal 1/2"-1" cams, continue up fantastic pockets and knobs to lower angle climbing and find a gear belay, 5.7.
Wander to the top or head up and right for the standard 3rd class walk off.
Smile a bunch and take pictures of Fairview.
Far right (south) end of Daff Dome's beautiful west face, look for a beautiful dark wáter streak passing through the outline of a Condor.
A light rack of single cams to 3", stoppers, a few médium metolius TCU's (yellow/orange/red) for pockets, long sling for knob tie-off. New ASCA bolts.
Don Jheff stuffing pockets pitch 3 El Condor.
Don Jheff enjoying the second pitch knobs of El Co...
Sep 1, 2015
Good route. It goes quick. Some good runouts on great knobs. don't need a 3 unless you use it to weight the slung knob. ;)