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East Gate Buttress
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Blood Drive T 
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El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

El Chollo 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford, Clay Watson 5/9/12
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,424
Submitted By: drewford on Jan 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Coming up the smooth (literally) finger locks.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Set a belay on a ramp beneath a single bolt on a bulge. One reachy move past the bolt puts you on easy ground that leads to the obvious finger crack. Climb crack to a two bolt belay.


Right of El Guapo on the second tier of the East Gate


Standard rack

Photos of El Chollo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: grk10vq initiating the initial face crux.
grk10vq initiating the initial face crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Shiho Kobayashi cranking the finger crack.
Shiho Kobayashi cranking the finger crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew on the FA.
Drew on the FA.

Comments on El Chollo Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Jan 31, 2013

Drew kept telling me to drop my heels. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean, 'drop my heels'? I'm trying to do that!" So I went back to the basics and climbed the Wasatch's other finger crack (ie, the Coffin) with the explicit intent of learning how to drop my heels. Drew was texting me between burns, "No really Clay, DROP. YOUR. HEELS."

[begin blog]Everyone who climbs cracks tells you to do this and of course it totally works. When you let your heels fall below your toes the rubber of the bottom of your shoe grips both sides of the crack and allow you to keep your weight on your feet. You just use your hands for balance. Its a miracle how much easier stuff is when you actually use technique. You can even climb cracks with tight shoes without killing yourself. What a nerd I am to just now realize this. [/end blog]
By Shiho
Feb 5, 2013

Tenesmus kept telling me to reach to a crimp at the bottom slab section. I kept asking, "WTF do you mean?" Then he said, "Oh sh*t! The crimp is like 2 feet away from you!"

Short people be aware. The initial slab will be next to impossible for you (or it was for me at least).
By tenesmus
Apr 13, 2013

Drew and I added an alternate start. Drilled and cleaned on lead with 3 bolts leaving the ledge and traversing the awesome rail to a little notch more in line with the finger crack.

Its for short people and called 'Shihollo'.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Apr 13, 2013

You guy's are really good friends for making a special variation just for her.
By Shiho
Apr 14, 2013

You guys are so sweet. Thanks!! Drew even put the first bolt on El Chollo lower than intended so that I could clip. I'll go check out this new variation soon.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 13, 2013

Nice work fellas. The alternate start was cool, still 10d?
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Nov 10, 2013

@Tyler - yeah, I think so. The crack is still the business. By itself, I think the Shiho-low start is 5.9
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 1, 2016

The slab crux is a little disheartening, but the rest is stellar!

The new guidebook recommends doubles to #3. That's a little to #0.75 is sufficient, maybe an extra or two for #0.4 and #0.5.

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