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El Chivo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Grant Hiskes, Derek Reinig, Steven Powers
Page Views: 5,647
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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El Chivo. Photo by Blitzo.


This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days that can get your goat.

A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well.


4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"); optional pro to 2.5"

Photos of El Chivo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep
Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Lawrence leading "the Goat"
Aaron Lawrence leading "the Goat"
Rock Climbing Photo: Al Sanderson at the crux of El Chivo.
Al Sanderson at the crux of El Chivo.
Rock Climbing Photo: El  n00b! Photo by Blitzo.
El n00b! Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Having some fun on El Chivo!!
Having some fun on El Chivo!!
Rock Climbing Photo: "El Chivo". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "El Chivo". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber approaching the anchors.  Photo by...
Unknown climber approaching the anchors. Photo by...

Comments on El Chivo Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As well, you can go driectly upward from the big arching flake after bolt #2, to the last bolt. This way is steep and significantly harder than the line as bolted, but is fun.
By jacob
Jan 29, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I did the route recently with locker, and i really enjoyed it.. leading it would be a bitch if you were under 5'9. its somewhat height dependant, but dont let that discourage you from going to do it.. seeings that you can set a top rope anchor if you carefully go up the gully to the right (as your coming in from the road you will see the anchors and to the right there is a gully) your shoes will definatly be needed, as are some cams an over the shoulders (to get over to the bolt and pins safely) put there are 3 good anchor points up top, 1 good 3/8 bolt and 2 glued in pins (both are good) all with rings on them. I belive that there is 3-4 bolts on the face for leading it

great route, hope this is some helpfull info
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 11, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I took a small group of beginners out on this one again today and really enjoyed it... The crux has a nice move that requires good balance and finesse for an easier rated route... I see where Chris has mentioned that additional pro can be placed so on and so forth... Personally I see no reason for it. I have led this thing many times (never fell yet though) and do not feel the need for any other pro other than what is on the rock already... It is a well thought out route and protected nicely...
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this route after seeing it on the rap from White Trash. It was really fun and climbed easier than it looked!
By Blitzo
Sep 18, 2006

A fun route!
By Darren D.
Mar 25, 2007

An OK route to do to impress all the tourist on-lookers. Just smile for their camera. Balance is all you really need for the positive edges.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I is a fun route. It would be an even finer route if the rock quality was better. Half the route is kitty litter. Even though I'm 6'1" and felt that it was challenging 5.8, my wife and partner is significantly shorter (5'4") and found moving to from the left facing flake to the medium flatish hold below the 3rd bolt was truly height dependant, thus I felt that as a whole, this route should be a soft 5.9.
By Brandontyrrell tyrrell
Jan 11, 2010

good route to do if your leaving the camp grounds
By beachplus4
From: So San Francisco
Feb 27, 2010

Super fun and easy, very close to the road. Great warm up or warm down.
By Aaron Lawrence
From: Redlands
Dec 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

just spent 2 days camped in front of this route(space #1). i went up the crack to the right and set top rope(take your gear, you will need it). i really liked this route alot, fun moves. i agree that taller climbers have the advantage here. everyone i met there agreed its more a 5.9 than a 5.8

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