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The Bilbo Buttresses
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chapo S 
El Chivo S 
Sean Penn S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 

El Chapo 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jan 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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We had a fun top rope session after I did my first...

Description 

Climb the south buttress of the pillar starting 30 feet down and right right from Sean Penn.

El Chapo meets Sean Penn at the 2-bolt anchor.

Location 

On the far right end of the Bilbo Butresses, on a small pillar/tower.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of El Chapo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A. Val de Mello, 5.10c B. Sean Penn 5.10d C. El Ch...
BETA PHOTO: A. Val de Mello, 5.10c B. Sean Penn 5.10d C. El Ch...

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By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jan 20, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Led this Sunday and found it to be pretty easy--maybe 5.6. It's fun and gets you to the anchor for Sean Penn.
By William Riley
From: Langley
Feb 21, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

An enjoyable sport climb. Easy to find. Good holds, well placed bolts. Pretty simple, pretty fun.
By Billy B.
Nov 27, 2016

Great climb for taking people who want to do their first Joshua Tree sport lead! Bolts are really well placed. The only problem is the rock isn't the greatest quality, but hopefully it will clean up with some traffic.