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Out-of-Towners Dome
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After The Beforetime T 
Aribas Ameobas T,S 
Close To The Edge T 
Down and Outers S 
El Cautivo S 
Left Of El Cautivo S 
Out-of-Towners, The T,S 

El Cautivo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby
Page Views: 2,135
Submitted By: John Peterson on Jan 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Emily doing work on pitch 1 of El Cautivo.


El Cautivo is a nice route on the right side of Out of Towner's Dome.

See for a photo.

It's been a while - I'm sure Scott will correct me if I mess this up!

P1: Mostly easy slab, leading to a good belay ledge.

P2: Up a crack for a couple of moves (#2 camalot), then step right and climb slab.

P3: More fun bolted slab.

P4: Bolts to the top.

I don't think there's any specific crux. All hard moves were well protected. Similar to the longer routes on Sheepshead (Peacemaker, Too Tough to Die).


Go right from where the trail hits the rock - start near a low point on the right side. You'll see a bolt in an easyish slab.

Descend by rapping the route. 2 ropes.


Bolted - a couple of cams and maybe a sling or two for the chickenheads. We use a #2 camalot on P2 and a #1 on 3. Probably don't need the #1 though.

There are some runout sections on easier ground. Typical Stronghold climbing.

Photos of El Cautivo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following P1
Following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first pitch of El Cautivo........I ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of El Cautivo........I ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack at the start of pitch 2. First bolt is r...
The crack at the start of pitch 2. First bolt is r...

Comments on El Cautivo Add Comment
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By DaveF Farkas
From: Durango, CO
Dec 23, 2010

Just had a super fun time on this route. Easy 2 60m rope raps straight down just becareful when you pull them. So many chicken heads to hang them up. We ended up moving our knot on the 2nd and 3rd raps to past the chicken head section so the pull would be easier. Just had to pass the knot on the rap down.
P.1 3 bolts to the anchor (100'). Run out but easy climbing to a huge ledge.
P.2 Up a crack (15ft. #2cam) then step right and up for 9 bolts to the belay (120'). Fun 5.9 face climbing to another huge ledge.
P.3 3 bolts left to a steep but juggy section then step right and up fantastic 5.9 face climbing to yet another excellent ledge. 9 bolts total.
P.4 Fun face climbing to the top. 5 bolts.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 29, 2010

If it starts up a bolted face right of a bombay chimney it is called the Down and Outers. 1) Climb face then up for 160ft. or so. Might be bolts at the belay. Then climb a jumble of rocks to a ledge below a curving crack. Curving crack to face and big ledge. Instead of going this way you can move right to the arete and reach the above mentioned ledge. Wander up to top on easier ground or rap down to anchors on El Cautivo. Not sure if this is the route you did. But now you will know what it is.
By DaveF Farkas
From: Durango, CO
Dec 31, 2010

Hey, I know this is about another area, but I climbed the bolted route up the face left of The Wastland. Anyone know what it's called and the grade?
By Patrick Betts
Nov 29, 2011

Climbed this a week or so ago. A pretty fun route. If you end up at the base of Wasteland, it is advised to go back down and continue to Out of Towners instead of trying to cut straight across - or the approach could take you 3 hours.

A few spots (only on p2 & p3) were pretty stout for 5.9, as compared to other friction climbing I've done in Colorado and elsewhere.

Pitch 1 and 4 were the most enjoyable with 3 & 4 having the few 5.9 crux moves.

Climb on!

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