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El Castleton 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Kevin Vowles and Rick Thompson
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Mike Engle on Aug 18, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Red Rib Wall showing the location o...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>


Find a way up to the lone bolt and start of the obvious left trending crack line. The original line starts below the chockstone following a left trending line of good climbing up to the first bolt. Alternatively, some people either start from the top of the chockstone and climb straight up on not so good rock or follow a line of unprotected edges coming in from the left. After clipping the bolt, pull into the crack and follow it's elegant arching line until near the top where you jog up and a little right to the anchors.


Obvious arching crack line left of Red Rib and Numbshull. From the Red Rib staging area, approach either by scrambling to the top of the flake and into the deep gully at the base of the wall and boulder over the chockstone to the start of the roped climbing or use Slab Happy (5.9) as an approach pitch. From the anchors on Slab Happy it is an easy 4th class stroll over the gully at the start of El Castleton. Two rope rappel (or one 70 meter rappel) to the anchors of Slab Happy and then one more rappel to ground.


One bolt plus gear to 2.5"

Photos of El Castleton Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Vitali leading El Castleton.
Nick Vitali leading El Castleton.

Comments on El Castleton Add Comment
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By sam murray
Oct 28, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Fun route but the start is rather serious. I traversed in from the left and aimed for the bush below the crack, this is easy but unprotectable and dangerous. The crack is fun and protects well with smaller cams.
By dave bingham
Feb 6, 2016

I've only done the route starting from above the chockstone. It's pretty hairy!
Can anyone out there comment on the route starting below the chockstone?
By Norm Larson
From: Wilson, Wy.
Apr 3, 2016

When I did this route I started up numbshull and then worked my way over to the crack. I don't remember it being too dicey that way. Made for a nice long pitch that way.
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Jul 20, 2017

This should at least have a PG13 rating on the official title.

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