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El Camino Non Real 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: George Hurley, Paul Boissonneault, 1980
Page Views: 98
Submitted By: Chris Gesek on Jul 6, 2015

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Description 

This is a direct version of Especially when the October Wind Blows. The description is from the guidebook because I'm pretty sure we were off route above P3. Handren's guide lacks the "unprotected 5.8" description common to many of the routes on this cliff, but there is definitely runnout (but easy) climbing up top.

P1. Climb the right facing corner/crack to top. With gear at your feet, traverse right along a seam(crux) to gain the crack above the last bolt of Finesse. Belay from a pine tree at the top of the crack. 5.8+ (90ft)

P2. Step right and climb the small corner past a pin. Look for a ledge and keep going to a right-facing corner, belay there. 5.8 (70ft)

P3. Move to the left end of the ledge, climb a slab to the middle of three inside corners. Climb the middle corner, then up a right-facing corner formed by a large flake. Belay from a pine tree on a ledge. 5.7 (150ft)

P4. Climb a flake on the left to an open chimney. Face climb up and belay on a tree covered ledge. 5.7 (80ft)

P5. Climb tree-filled ledges to the top. 5.7 (160ft)

Location 

50 feet right of the toe of the cliff at a right facing corner/crack, just left of the bolted line of Finesse.

Protection 

Standard rack to 3". RPs/small cams help with the runnout up top.


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