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El Alquimista T 

El Alquimista 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: I. Elorza & MJ. Moises, 2012
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: burado on Apr 21, 2017

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P1) Climb up somewhat solid blocks and discontinuous features to a bolt and pin below a large roof (5.7, 30m).

P2) Climb a right-facing corner (hands) to a ledge, step right to another right facing corner which leads you to a large ledge of blocks and a 2 pin belay, often snow-filled (5.10a, 20m).

P3) Traverse right to a dike, climb the dike for 5m until there is an obvious horizontal hand crack traverse. This leads to a nice corner (fingers) and the belay (easily visible from P2) (5.10a, 30m).

P4) Enter the green headwall and climb cracks on the left side, trending left to a large ledge with a bolt and pin belay (5.10a, 30m).

P5) Climb the clean headwall via a right leaning crack, very fun (5.10c, 25m).

P6) Money pitch, traverse across three cracks, on face holds, until you reach the nice hand crack leading up to a roof. Grunt yourself above the roof, crux. Continue up the pod to a nice ledge with a bolt and pin below (5.11a, 30m).

P7) Go straight up the well featured off-width crack. Try not to burn your #4 and #5 at the start. Big hands and a few fists lead to some moderate arm-bars. After, there's a nice section of laybacking and stemming (finger gear), which leads to a chimney. The chimney takes some gear in a crack halfway up. 2 bolts at the top of the chimney (5.10d, 30m).

From there we unroped and soloed to the top of the formation. We didn't find any belays, as indicated on the topo. We downclimbed back to the belay on top of the chimney to start the rappels.


This route is located on Aguja El Fraile in Grupo Cohete.

From the refugio hike up a path along the river aiming for the Aguja Aureliano. Hike up horse trails, then scree into the obvious gully in front of Aureliano. A fixed rope helps pass a large boulder. Continue up scree for another 30 minutes till a big clean wall with green lichen becomes visible on your left. The first belay will be visible 20m up below a large roof. Hard to get lost in good weather. Plan 1-2 hours from the Refugio.


Double Camalots from #0.3 to #2, single #3 & #4, small stoppers. Some may find a #5 useful for the offwidth on the last pitch. 1 60m rope will get you down, a 70m will allow you skip a rap from the 2nd pitch, which usually is snow covered.

Photos of El Alquimista Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from pitch 3
Looking down from pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the traverse on pitch 5
Making the traverse on pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the base of the headwall
View from the base of the headwall

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