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Eighteen Wheeler 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1994, Patrick and Mary Purcell
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 6, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This was a long-forgotten route, and is a gem, rediscovered in the 2008 guidebook. It's a good introduction to hard slab climbing.

Climb up past horizontals to a face. Two bolts protect the face (crux, 5.10a) which leads to a horizontal break in the slab. Move right to a fixed anchor (optional belay here). Move up past a bolt and horizontal crack (crux, 5.10b) to a fixed anchor at the top.

Rappel with two ropes (or a single 80m rope).

Location 

In the middle of the slab, about 20' right of a satellite dish-like scoop 3' up. There are 2 protection bolts 70' up.

Protection 

Nothing large; standard rack up to #1 Camalot.


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By perrotr
From: Telluride
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top anchors. Sweet moves past the older first anchor.

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