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Eight Ball in the Side Pocket 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst, Charles Ganote 2001
Season: late fall - early spring
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Aaron Moses on Sep 29, 2014

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Description 

Eight ball is a fun beta intensive New River Slab climb with several cruxes to keep you thinking, all culminating with a committing move at the end. This one could be a challenging onsite. Though sometimes close to the climbing, the crack is off route.

The route shares anchors with Basic Bubba Crack and Face it Bubba, so it is easy to TR or hang draws after climbing either. It also should be easy to hike to the top.

Stop reading here if you want to onsight...

The standard start is on the face just below the first bolt or the short person start uses a cheater stone on the arete. Either way, use the left hand sidepull and obvious jug to climb the face. Make a couple reaches between good horizontals until the good holds disappear. Fight the temptation to sidepull the crack, find what little holds are available on the face and balance your way up. Continue up to a good horizontal to another balancy standup move and then more good horizontals as things steepen up a bit. Use the iron band sidepull and the hard to see crack out left to stand up to good holds at the last bolt. Stand up to the slopey sidepull, and then balance further out right to a good little pinch, step through, shuffle feet around and then reach up and left to good hidden mono pocket. After deciding which finger can handle the move, toss to the good horizontal and crank your way up jugs to the anchor.

Location 

Bolt line just left of Basic Bubba Crack

Protection 

6 bolts to anchors shared with Face it Bubba and Basic Bubba Crack.


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