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Little Eiger
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Abney 74 
Animaniac, The 
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Conehead S 
DeCappitator, The S 
Decider, The S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
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Eiger Direct S 
Eiger Sanction S 
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Headline T,S 
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Trouthead S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Eiger Sanction 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1991
Page Views: 3,859
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 17, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "...

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This route is located to the left of 'Eiffel Tower'. This route is very straightforward with a sloping topout and tricky feet towards the 5th and 6th bolts. The first half of the route climbs through a vegetated crack and easy terrain. A great route, the only thing it lacks for this type of route is continuity, the difficult moves don't last very long, but are enjoyable.


9 bolts - open cold shuts anchor.

Photos of Eiger Sanction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the upper crux.
Below the upper crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up.
Starting up.

Comments on Eiger Sanction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 16, 2017
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Jun 27, 2002

This line lies just to the right of Trouthead 10c/d and just to the left of Eiffel Tower 10d; it is the 5th line in from the 'cave' on the left side of the crag. A great line with delicate face climbing a thin layback and a sloping topout. 2nd and 3rd clips seemed difficult, but overall the climb seemed well protected as long as you get the 2nd bolt clipped. A great 7-bolt line that offers a variety of climbing moves. I don't recall any vegetation on the route as the description states.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 5, 2003

This used to be an exciting lead for the grade. Now that bolts have been added to this route, the only thing that you have to worry about is Z-clipping.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 5, 2003

I also would like to know what's up with the retrobolting on this route and others in the vicinity. The extra bolts on this climb seem for the most part unnecessary although the new finish is a good idea. Whoever it is, please don't redo the route to the right (Eiffel Tower) and consider removing the fourth bolt on Eiger Sanction
By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route with a challenging left handed pinch before the overhang for a .10 leader. Highly recomended.

By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Oct 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

opps wrong route, was talking about the first pitch of too..
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005

Because "Trouthead" has been added, this route is no longer the next to the right of "Headline", but is directly right of "Trouthead".

As a sidenote, in case you are not aware, the name of the route was taken from a novel which was adapted into the best climbing movie of all time. I know; the body of climbing films does not constitute a rarified genre. However, this 1975 film, directed by and starring Clint Eastwood, comes highly recommended and contains some realistic climbing. You'll see some old-school hip belays and hexes, though.
By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2008

The 2nd bolt seemed a pretty spicy with ground fall possibilities. The 6th both gave me some issues. I could have approached it wrong, but after a number of tries I couldn't seem to clip it prior to committing to the set of thin moves (I'm 6'1" btw). I ended up taking a bad fall here slamming the wall with my hip. It was fun up until that point.
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Want to add some spice to this climb, do it in the rain. Just barely missed the on site today because it started raining about time I started smearing. Lots of fun though.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

There are now nine bolts not including the anchors. I absolutely loved this climb. Lots of thin balancy movement and some cool climbing on the flake before the crux.
By pat thompson
From: superior
Jun 21, 2011

Technical climbing with a very thin finish. Thank goodness for the nylon jug at the exit slab moves. 11a anyone???
By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

Great route, tricky climbing to get past the 2nd bolt, but thoughtful foot work is the key.... A shame there is so many unneeded bolts on it...but skipping bolts 3 and 5 make it exciting again.... I thought it to be harder than Eiffel Tower, for I got the onsight on Eiffel, and fell 2 times at the top of the Eiger Sanction...slopey feet /, and a hard to find crimp at the top... make it a stout onsight, but solid at the grade...10+.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun and tricky start for being 5'7" (6'2" partner made it look a lot easier). After that, pretty much non-stop fun (still hard though). Highly recommended if you are pushing into 10d lead.
By Grey Satterfield
From: Broomfield
Aug 3, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The final few sloping moves are very hard.
By Wes F
Apr 27, 2017

Skip the third clip, it's more trouble than it's worth.
By Brendan Armesy
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 16, 2017

I found it pretty fun. There's a missing bolt apparently which creates a tiny bit of runout. I was told of it before I started, and I didn't realize it was missing until I was rapping down. The crux is pretty wild. The crux for me was like those velcro games back in the day where you put on a velcro suit and run as a wall hoping to stick, except here I tried to flop my body over the lip hoping to find anything to grip on. Still! I recommend it!

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