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Little Eiger
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Unsorted Routes:

Eiger Direct 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Tod Anderson, 1995
Page Views: 6,223
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b. 2. The Nordwand, 11b/...

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The best pitch on the Little Eiger is also one of the hardest. Moderate climbing leads to a tricky corner/roof, and then a rest on the right. Perfect rock, thin sidepulls, and sloping feet define a technical crux. Maybe the last bolt on the crux is a little high.


10 bolts.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Eiger Direct.  Photo by Leeanne.
Eiger Direct. Photo by Leeanne.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 9, 2010
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 2, 2001

A truly excellent line, 3 stars. The crux for me was to become almost a deadpoint to bring the right hadnf rom a small sidepull to a chest high crimp. This is not easy, considering how far you are stretched before doing the deadpoint. An awesome move to highlight the route. The roof is quite easy on jugs, not a problem, just get the feet up. As for the ending, I, as I have seen others do, skipped the last bolt, the way the climbing trends brings you above the bolt before you know it, just head on to the anchors another 10 or so feet and celebrate.
By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

Best route at this crag-excellent
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 18, 2003

Can TR this from the anchors on First Impression by swinging right, and clipping a directional QD on one of the last bolts. This still allows you to try the crux, which seemed a little easier going left. Up to the crux is nice 10a climbing, including the corner to the roof. A sidepull to the right helps to pop over the roof.
By micah stocker
Jun 13, 2004

Crimps, Crimps, and more Crimps. Solid on the grade felt a lot like the Contest 11d in Eldo. Get on it.
By micah stocker
Nov 2, 2004

I was on this route several [months] ago and took a [wicked] fall at the crux. The way I was doing the route, was at the crux I had a really high right foot and got myself into a [lieback] to make the clip. Bear in mind my last [draw] was well below my feet. I took a fall and the rope [wrapped] around my leg slamming me into the wall upside down. It was a crazy ride. It was strange because at the time I was [circuiting routes] from right to left, and had climbed this route many times. Well, I guess it was just one of those days. [Regardless,] this is still one of the great CCC climbs in my book.
By gerald depew
Nov 12, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Not a bad line, but typical for a Colorado 11d. In California, this would be an 11b if that. A bit tricky to flash for me...second time on it and cranked thru the crux thanks to God and NOT lying back to clip! Micah, no wonder you took such a hard fall!!!! What were you thinking? Maybe you should consider taking a few lessons on climbing safely from your local community college. I'm sure CU has a decent us all a favor here pal, there's already enough flailers out there...the good Lord knows we don't need another!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 16, 2004

Is Gerald serious? He can't be serious. If he is he is a wingnut. He probably listens to Rush Limbaugh and says things like "He's right! He really hit the nail on the head there."
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 15, 2005

Awesome route! Went up there today and it was great. The roof has nice jugs and hand jams if you really want. Take your time getting to the 3rd bolt above the roof. Took a real nice whipper there today. Classic roof and slab route at clear creek.
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

To locate the route, see the topo on the "Footloose" and my comment. However, this route is pretty obvious since it goes up the only really burly roof on Little Eiger. This had been my nemesis for a few years. The roof is tough-looking, but is not the crux and easily surmountable if you lieback to the left and walk your feet up the right. Don't try to handjam directly up unless you want to overburlify the move. The crux is above on sidepulls, moving to the left. The feet are very important. You can stem your feet on sidepulls that don't look great; they will stick. This is required so that when you reach the crappy v-slot with your left hand, you don't have to put a lot of weight on it. I had a difficult time making the clip at this point, because there was no place to put my right foot to prevent the barndoor when I took my right hand off to clip. I finally was able to smear/flag it, make the clip, and move on. I have fallen several times trying to make this clip and it's a bit of a swing.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 8, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Buddy of mine took a nice whipper on this one trying to clip the crux bolt at the top, came within a foot or so of the lip of the roof. Be conscious of the fall here, and you should be fine, but mess it up, and you could be hurting. Don't let that stop you though, this route is tons of fun, and taking the plunge is pretty enjoyable as well.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The third bolt above the roof is indeed very hard to clip. I took a nice long one today. Your feet will just cut unexpectedly on this route. I fell 3 times on my two RP attempts and none were from being pumped...all just feet sliding off. One was really because I botched the sequence at the start of the sidepull action.

The crux moves seem pretty sequential, though there are a few ways to do it.

The roof didn't seem hard and there is a great foot out right after you pull up that you can get the big sidepull right and below the bolt. I clipped from there.
By chipacles
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

One of the best lines I've done so far at Clear Creek.

The roof, as others have said, isn't so hard: just lie back and walk up.

The crux is awesome. Like a lot of face climbing, you have to just trust your feet and move through it. To make the clip at the crux, I had to move way left, onto another sort of lieback, then toe up and clip. Would've been an awkward fall if I'd missed it, but way easier than trying to clip from the so-so hold below.

Fantastic route!!

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