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Eiger biners
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Jun 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Troll and Eiger hexes were, as I recall, very thick and heavy devices. Waaay thicker than even the first generation of hexcentrics. No fun hauling them around. I might have one somewhere in my old gear collection too. Will find it and do a pic if possible. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,282 points
Jun 26, 2012
Coolest thread I've read in a long time, thanks guys. Rschap
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Apr 26, 2009
439 points
Jun 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Here's what I dug up from the old rack hanging in the barn. First pic is a gathering of carabiners. Left column: a Clog D, stamped Climb High on the other side as they were selling them here in States. Next below is the ultimate 'biner of the late 70's, the Bonaiti 'ultralight' D biner. I must have had 50 or more of these back then. they were pretty light for the day. Next is a Bonaiti oval, and last is a rare hollow Chouinard 'featherlight' carabiner. They had a tendency to crack open, split and break in half. Weight only 40 grams, also an early 80's invention.

Second column: An Eiger oval, next a similar SMC oval, then a Liberty slight D' shaped biner, and finally a Salewa R.Robbins oval. Note the bump at the gate for easy location of gate on an oval,,,think it was the first carabiner to have that for location.

Next pic is a Troll product I think, some off shaped titon thing, then a slider chock, manufacturer I don't know as it said 'patent pending' with some numbers only on it. Finally a nice silver #7 Forrest Titon.

Last pic is a Chouinard drilled hexcentric, supposed to lighten up the chock before they got a thinner aluminum to use for best and current shapes. An SMC 'taperloc', just imagine these 2 chocks being crushed in shape when holding a big fall. Last is a heavy thick Troll hex, with an 11mm. rope as the sling.
More old stuff, like RURPs and crackN'ups also in my old gear collection.
Rock Climbing Photo: collection of old biners
collection of old biners




Rock Climbing Photo: titon shaped chock and the real thing
titon shaped chock and the real thing




Rock Climbing Photo: troll hex and a chouinard drilled hexcentric
troll hex and a chouinard drilled hexcentric
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,282 points
Jun 26, 2012
Woodchuck, thanks for the biner info. Your Liberty is exactly like my "Gendarme" branded one. So it's not an Eiger, as I suspected.

Speaking of Eiger hexes, here's the only one I have, a #2. It's 1.25" long x 0.5" across its symmetrical hex profile. Note the large holes. This is apparently a non-OEM cable on it, which would explain the clunky swage and Tygon tubing (not heat shrink) on it.
Rock Climbing Photo: small Eiger hex, age unknown
small Eiger hex, age unknown
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
Jun 26, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Yes, I do have some of those old Eiger wires too, just forgot to grab them off the same rack in storage. Same size too I believe. SMC also had similar solid wired hex nuts too. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,282 points
Jun 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Wow guys! Thanks for the pics and the history lesson! COOL STUFF!

I never know Chouinard ever MADE a hollow carabiner nor there was a Robbins carabiner either!

WOW! Hollow! Now that's a wild idea!
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Jun 28, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Different size/shapes of the'D', and adjustments to the oval seemed to keep the 80's busy with redesigns. Chouinard ovals were the standard, then those smaller Bonaiti 'D shaped lightweight biners came out, and often under 3 bucks per, made for a nice way to load up your trad rack cheap. Don't think doglegs came along until,,,90's?,, and then wire gates and the itty bitty sized Neutrinos and similar of the last 10 years. Always something new to get you to buy more gear. My toprope setup bundle of slings still use the collection of ovals I have. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,282 points
Jun 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Yeah it seems the trend is marketing these days and every couple of months someone comes out with the latest and greatest new carabiner - smaller, lighter, etc - and now the wire gate is the rage of course.

Sure - shaving weight off a rack is always a nice thing - but still - the classic oval 'biner can't be beat - IMHO. Sure - there ARE stronger shapes and such now - but - I've never heard of an oval 'biner failing yet...not saying they haven't - but I never heard of it happening - and if it did - it sure wasn't due to the shape of the 'biner vs. being defective or damaged.
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Jun 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Ed
For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting.

here
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Jun 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Ed Wright wrote:
For an interesting story about a wire-gate 'biner see my August 1, 2011 blog posting. here


OK thanks.
NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Jan 21, 2013
Hello,
Still seeking a few more Eiger 'biners for my collection, especially any anodized models. PM me what you have for sale...
Thanks!
Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
Dec 2, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Various Eiger and other biners
Various Eiger and other biners

Just found the site a few days ago, and saw the thread regarding Eiger biners. So, dug though some of gear and dug out what I still had from back in the 70's.
Three of us used these when climbing together back in high school, and I even did a rappel a little over a year ago using one of the Eigers and the Eiger brake bar.
We never encountered any problems using Eigers, for that matter any of the others. The CMI had a heavier brake bar and was squared of on the back side as the picture shows, used it quite often as well.
A lot of the routes we tackled then used these very biners, and would not have a problem using them today if choosing to do so. That being said, I have decided for sentimental reasons, to add them to a display I'm working on to reflect what we used back in the day.
I'd like to find some Goldline rope to include with the display collection, so if anyone knows where some can be had, let me know via a reply, it will come though on my e-mail.
Thanks, stay safe.
Jim-B
Joined Dec 2, 2015
5 points
Dec 2, 2015
I've got 50 feet or so of 3/8" Goldline. It won't be cheap though. Sentimental value, and all that. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,648 points
Dec 3, 2015
Hey Gunkiemike,
Thanks for the post, much appreciated. Happened to be visiting with an old friend, and he had an old coil in his shed, so was able to get some of that for my display. I understand the sentiment when it comes to some equipment and such. Hang on to yours and enjoy the memories.
Thanks again for your post, have a great day.
JB
Jim-B
Joined Dec 2, 2015
5 points
Dec 18, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Forrest tools.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eiger hexes
Eiger hexes
ACR
Joined Nov 15, 2011
607 points


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