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Ego Donor 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Eden Masters, Scott Ayers 1991
Page Views: 2,464
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Sep 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Tiffany donating ego


Look for a line of bolts around the middle of the back wall of Swim Fin. It starts to the right and uphill of an obvious lieback flake. Follow the bolts. Thin crimpy hands and odd body positions make this a sustained route worthy of its name--do not try it unless you are solid in the grade.


Plenty of well-placed bolts and chain anchors. I don't remember the count - feel free to post it if you know.

Photos of Ego Donor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun start
Fun start
Rock Climbing Photo: Some fun moves on Ego Donor
Some fun moves on Ego Donor
Rock Climbing Photo: Top rope on Ego Donor
BETA PHOTO: Top rope on Ego Donor
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Egan clips into the chains in his first lead ...
Mark Egan clips into the chains in his first lead ...

Comments on Ego Donor Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 9, 2017
By eMurdock
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 29, 2004

This is not a particularly difficult 5.9 and it is definitely one that a climber could push their limits on. There are good bolts every couple feet at the start. Overall, there are not many 5.9s on the mountain this safe.
By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Sep 30, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It's definitely safely bolted, so I think anyone who wants to give it a try should. You can always back off.

But I honestly thought this was one of the most sustained 5.9 sport routes I'd ever done when I first moved here and did it. It's great, and it really is a 5.9. but almost every move is 5.9, IMHO.
By Wes Turner
From: az
Oct 3, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree with Forest...5.9+
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2005

bottom links of chains are 30 - 40 percent worn.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route often gets the reputation for being a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but I believe it is more the fact that the route is sustained. There is some potential for a nasty fall if the climbers were to blow it pulling up onto the ledge halfway up or clipping the bolt there after.
I really enjoy this climb and think it is one of the better 5.9 sport routes at Windy Point.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Nov 18, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I agree, it doesn't have any rediculously hard moves, but is really sustained and pumpy for 5.9.

I thought the chains up top looked a bit nasty, probably have years left, but the left connector link is bent and both look slightly thin where attached to the hanger. The lower link showed some wear, but not too bad. The connector links should be replaced with quicklink screw ons.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

There is most assuredly a runout with decker potential in this route.
By Erin Cook
From: Tucson AZ
Oct 31, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I've only recently started working on 9's in the gym and I did this climb on TR without ever weighing the rope. As far as the moves go I wouldn't rate it higher than a 9+. It was very pumpy but halfway up you have a great ledge that you can hang out on and shake your arms out.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 11, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

can we discard this silly notion of a "5.9 move"? if route A has 10 moves as hard as the distinct crux section on an established 5.9 route B which has only a single move of that difficulty, then route A is harder than 5.9.

like this climb.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 12, 2009

I agree with Don Buland. When he says it is so, it is so!
By Johnny Ice
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is fun. It pushes me and I'm definitely going to come back and do it again.
By Skatman
Sep 4, 2013

The connector link on the left anchor is rusty and bent halfway open. Looks a little unsafe to me. Both connector links should be checked and probably replaced with quick links by someone who knows more about anchors.
By Andrew Nelson
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun route. I would definitely say the crux is down low (to bolts 2 and 3), but watching your feet will take you through the crux.
By RobPelon
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

ditto the description about being solid in the grad. Though well bolted it is pumpy and potentially awkward during the first half of the climb. Things ease up after the ledge 1/2 way. Appears the left connector link at the chains is in the same condition Skatman described 2.5 years ago
By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 5, 2016

Okay Kids, how about taking some responsibility for your climbing areas. Instead of pointing out climbs with issues how about we educate ourselves and fix things when you find them or go back and fix them next weekend or next day. Check out school of rock on this site to figure out if something needs to be fixed. I thank you in advance for getting involved in the stewardship of our areas.
By Bryanz
From: Arizona
Apr 9, 2017

Yeah the anchor does not look good because of the link pulling apart, I did not hesitate to rap on it though. Probably need bolt cutters or cordless grinder to remove.

Rock Climbing Photo: Ego Donor Left anchor
Ego Donor Left anchor

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