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Chocolate Factory
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EGBG 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Wheatley
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Dom R on Mar 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

A long fun line that begins just as you enter the left side of the chocolate factory (when the trail forks take the left side instead of the right which takes you over to oompa and loompa) One of the first climbs you will come to as you gain the cliff band. Starts on large blocks under a roof. Pull through the low crux to find nice long juggy climbing above with a steep finish. Take time to enjoy the large sit down hueco in the center of the climb. Watch for friable rock, recommend stick clipping the first bolt due to possible poor rock conditions. With more travel to clean up some of the choss I think this could be a Red classic, a powerful start with a cruiser finish makes for an incredibly enjoyable way to spend a sunset at the end of the day.

Protection 

12 bolts. Double chain anchor.


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By Nitrous Stone
Apr 6, 2016

first bit of this route is sketchy! hard clips but a fun bouldery route!
By A. Michael
Nov 2, 2016

Super fun mini-epic. The only real difficulty is very early, then it is smooth sailing with lots of options. I meandered into the crack up high, which was probably off-route. Probably best to stay left and follow the bolt line to the chains.
By dscottclark
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was my favorite moderate at Chocolate Factory. The traverse to the first clip is a bit heady if you don't stick clip (Why did I leave mine at home?). My girlfriend made the small ledge after the 2nd clip a lay-down rest. Super fun. I climbed the top crack instead of the jugs out left...because hand crack!