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Eeyore's Enigma 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Warren Harding, TM Herbert & Galen Rowell, 1969 FFA: Jim Orey et al., 1973
Page Views: 9,073
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Looking down through the squeeze at the fist secti...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Its name gives good indication of what to expect.

The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.

The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.

The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.

Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.

The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.

Really wide and kinda scary.

Location 

Eeyore's Enigma is the large offwidth chimney to the left and around the corner from Traveler's Buttress and to the right of Eeyore's Ecstasy.

Protection 

Cams .5"-4" double 1"-3" and 3 #4s are useful.


Photos of Eeyore's Enigma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay for Eeyore's Enigma. Pitch ratings a...
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Eeyore's Enigma. Pitch ratings a...
Rock Climbing Photo: George Connor and partner on Eeyore's Enigma
George Connor and partner on Eeyore's Enigma
Rock Climbing Photo: George Connor in the upper squeeze roof of Eeyore'...
George Connor in the upper squeeze roof of Eeyore'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peering out the keyhole of the pitch two chimney b...
Peering out the keyhole of the pitch two chimney b...
Rock Climbing Photo: On Pitch 3, you can either continue up the chimney...
On Pitch 3, you can either continue up the chimney...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow figuring out the moves on Pitch 2 of Eeyore's ...
Dow figuring out the moves on Pitch 2 of Eeyore's ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Eeyore's Enigma from Main Ledge.
Looking up Eeyore's Enigma from Main Ledge.

Comments on Eeyore's Enigma Add Comment
Show which comments
By AndyBG
May 16, 2013

Wow, this is an amazing adventure! The squeeze - burrow deep or move to the left? At 6'2" I had to resort to the latter, after struggling to exhaustion and failing many times at the former. Wow.
By Kyle Marks 1
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2015

Amazing route! This was my first lead in a squeeze chimney (traverse) and I got pretty scraped up. Wearing shorts was a bad decision.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 20, 2016

A #5 BD cam is nice for the chimney belay after the second pitch.

Pitch two is the business! I haven't worked that hard for 5.10a in a while. When you get squeeze/chimney/o-dub action going on it gets pretty thug nasty pretty quickly.

I found the noted crux in the description went pretty well with some wide hands, some fists, and careful stemming and chimneying with the crux coming around the first corner to the offwidth that leads up to the squeeze roof. I walked/leap frogged two #4 camalots without much difficulty. I was too much a weenie to let it all hang out on one cam I would be occasionally pulling out.

The second crux where you are hanging out of the squeeze/maw roof like a dingleberry was another matter. Those wider of shoulder and chest will find this pitch quite challenging. You want to tunnel up and through, but you won't be able to. The prospect of pumping out of the squeeze loomed but, fortunately, did not happen. Good thing since I had a tail of my rack, helmet, and shoes hanging off me!

This climb will likely leave you bruised and battered but happy.