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Ed's World 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Oct 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Past the hollow/brittle section and it gets real g...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Right of bunny slope, short hands to fingers in a slab


tips- 3"

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By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Start on top of the large rock in a finger crack and move right at the ledge. Small gear to # 1 camalots through the middle and top, with some smaller gear at the top as well.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was a fun warmup, but beware the loose blocks guarding the access to the thin handcrack from the ledge. Pulling these moves, the gear to stop a groundfall was a #1 TCU placed in the hollow blocks. I doubt it would have held a fall.
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Piece of sandstone came loose when i climbed it, fairly big one. Just under the beginning of the slanted crack that takes you to the anchors, bit to the bottom right of the climber's feet on the picture.
By Cimbing Ivy
From: bay area, CA
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun short climb that's atypical for the Creek. There are quite a few face and twin cracks options if you want to take a break from the "purity" of splitter crack techniques. Loose blocks section half way up the climb after the small ledge, but it's obvious enough and should be fine if you don't place gear in that section or blatantly pull on it outward... Good belay platform next to a shady pine. Sweet climb.

Gear beta: a yellow Alien placed up high in the jumbled loose blocks section provides security through the "death block" section.

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