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Emperor Slabs
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Ed's Route  T 
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Ed's Route  

WI3-4 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original: WI3-4 PG13 [details]
FA: Ed Nester et. al. about 1975 or 76
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: Robert Hall on May 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: "Ed's Route" on upper right side of Empe...

Description 

I did this route with the late Ed Nester in either the winter of 1975-76 or 1976-77. It was an "add on" to an ascent of Chapel Pond slab.

I have no idea if it was the first technical ice done on the slab.

The ice was unusually thick that year, and Ed always had a discriminating eye. So after the first rap or two down the low-angle left-side-gully (some folk, even then, just down climbed it) we traversed climber's left along the snowy and tree ledge with the huge overhang above.,

I'm not sure if Ed did this in one pitch or two, but the pine tree played an important role, either as a belay or as a good protection point. Remember, 150 ft ropes were "long" in the mid-1970's.

Location 

See Photo

Protection 

Way better than average for this slab.


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