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Edger Sanction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,776
Submitted By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Edger is just left of the Rat Crack. Several vari...

Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.



True to it's name this quality route features fairly continuous thin edge climbing for most of it's length and is stout for the grade.

Boulder directly up to a high first bolt (or traverse from the left via some easier moves) then make the crux moves on the way to the 2nd bolt after which the size of the holds increase and it eases off in difficulty.


Just left of Rat Crack.


3 bolts, 3 bolt anchor/rap (all 3'8")

Photos of Edger Sanction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Edger Sanction (5.10a), Lake Perris SRA
BETA PHOTO: Edger Sanction (5.10a), Lake Perris SRA
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux of Edger Sanction.
At the crux of Edger Sanction.

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By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 27, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route starts by traversing right using some delicate footwork. A few committing moves gets one to the first bolt. Moreover, the stance when clipping the second bolt can be a bit tenuous. The bolts are placed where they have to be, but this route is kinda stern for Big Rock.
By Pat W
Apr 30, 2006

One of Big Rock's best. Clean thin edges, sustained. Might want a spot to the first bolt.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Short, yes, but my favorite route at BR! The crux is a beautifully delicate sequence on dime edges. I have led this starting from the left, from the right, and straight up; all about the same difficulty. A BR must do.
From: Menifee, CA
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If this route was three times taller it would be a classic! Best route at Big Rock!
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Left, right, or straight up? Bill is right on, it's all about the same. The landing has gotten uglier over the years and a pad and/or a spotter would inspire confidence while seeking the 1st clip. The age of sticky rubber eased the sting a bit, but as Bill indicated, those dime edges (some larger) are a great test of your edging skills. Totally agree, this is one of the best routes at Big Rock.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012

I don't know what ways best but you can TR it after leading rat crack.

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