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Bad Makeup (5.11c/5.9) S 
Breaking Through the Layers S 
Edge of the World S 
Indian Summer T 
Licorice Line T 
Pillar of Destiny S 
Rainy Day Surprise T 
Shooting Star T 
Supernova T 
Updraft from Hell T 
Zen-ith T,TR 

Edge of the World 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Micah Klesick, Ethan Vella, George Zack
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Mar 29, 2015

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Another shot of Ethan, showing how steep the line ...

Description 

Fun, dynamic movement up the overhung left face. Has a fixed draw on the 3rd bolt.
Start up easy face moves to a high first bolt, then navigate two bulges to a ledge. Crack was not used due to massive amounts of poison oak in it.
Once on the ledge, either run it out easy moves to the fixed draw, or place a 1
or 2" cam (either works), and then clip the draw. Then strike up the face, to the roof, and over the left half of the roof (left half was FA route, roof can be navigated either way, slightly better holds on the left.)
The right face and arete is a 5.11+ project. Needs bolting (open).

Location 

An obvious bulging arete as you come down to the main part of the cliff.

Protection 

5 draws, plus two for the anchor, and an optional 1" or 2" cam (not used on the FA).
Rap rings on anchor.


Photos of Edge of the World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Vella on the 2nd ascent.
Ethan Vella on the 2nd ascent.

Comments on Edge of the World Add Comment
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By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 9, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great find, still some Poison Oak popping up. The jugs make this a fun line and powerful. I used a 0.5 Camalot to back up the move up to the 3rd bolt. Good feet keep appearing when you need them.
By dydayley
From: camas,wa
Oct 29, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. powerful! Friend led onsite up FA route direction and suggested I go to the right side of the face and use the arete. It was a great line up the arete. Sounded like it was suggested it may be 11+? Not sure if this is what was meant or if there is another bolt line that will be put up the face on the R side of the arete. The line I took did feel harder than the FA line, but not as hard as "breaking through the layers." Thanks for putting up this line. This is probably my favorite sport pitch! There is also a spot for a smaller nut below fixed draw.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 30, 2016

I TR'd the right arête a while back, and felt it went in the 5.11 range, but it was hard to say. Glad you like the lines.
Also, if anyone wants to bolt the right arête line, they are more than welcome to do so. I just don't have time to get out and do it!

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