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Edge of Night 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Fredericks, Rich Doleman, Jim Bridwell (Oct '67)
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 10, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Camp 4 Wall is known for it's wide and burly cracks, and Edge of Night epitomizes this style of climbing.

Scramble up the 3rd class gully as you would for Secret Storm, but instead of continuing up, traverse left on ledges past the old bolted anchor at the top of Sample the Dog (a short 12a face climb). At the end of this ledge you will find a clean 4" crack in a corner. This is the start of Edge of Night.

Climb the crack past a couple old bolts to a crux section which starts as an offwidth corner until the corner pinches closed to form a tight flared chimney. I found this section to be pretty secure and you can walk a bomber #5 Camalot above your head the whole way, but making upward progress can be sort of thrutchy and tiring. There was a fixed #6 Camalot in the middle of the crux. Above this is an easy chimney to a tight tunnel-through behind a chockstone. Don't place gear way deep in the back of the chimney or it could potentially drag your cams below into the crack (like that #6) Belay ontop of the chockstone.

Pitch 2 is only rated 5.9 but it's tough and the pro isn't quite as solid and easy to place as on the first pitch. Start up the awkward corner until you come to another wedged chockstone. You can maybe tunnel behind the chockstone but I passed it to the right. Lieback the edge of the flake on the outside of the chimney (it's possible to chimney up first to place some pro, then chimney back down to the chockstone). A final jam crack to a weird and difficult mantel, then some easy face climbing, leads up to the rap tree.

From the rap tree, make one double-rope rappel back to the ledge and then scramble off the way you came up.

I linked the two pitches into one long "full value" pitch, but the rope drag was pretty terrible by the top so I don't know if I'd recommend that.

Protection 

Cams from 1" to 6" with doubles from 2" to 4.5".


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By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Mar 17, 2014

There is a strange set of bolts about 60ft up from the ledge. They are brand new, but no rap rings and they are weirdly offset, one above the other. I led the pitch in one go, but it might be smart to break it up. The top is super dirty, but can be protected with something tiny. 200ft of full value wide climbing.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 17, 2014

I remember going up there in the formative years with Dick Cilley.
Here is what he says about the route over on SuperTopo:
Funny story about I think Edge of Night. I was struggling on it and I yelled down to the Fish, you want to come up and take a look? He asked, How is it?(the fall) I looked down at the pro and said, "Itś death Russ". He said, "Naw thats alright".
Cilley then finished off the pitch.

I remember it being real good and with modern pro, it should be a nice afternoon out.

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