REI Community
search
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Line T 
Black Wall Traverse 
Boss Man, The T 
Chips Block T 
Edge of Night T 
Ending Crack T 
Floyd T 
Glory Days S 
Half Ascent T 
Lost in the Sespe T 
Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 
Pine to Pine T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Roadside Cracks T 
Tree Root T 
Wadka T 
Wasp/The Sting, The T 
White Spider, The T 

Edge of Night 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970's
Page Views: 1,591
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Feb 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
photo: ab

Description 

A prominent and striking line up the arete at the far right end of the main wall. A classic gear protected runout face climb.

Easy but largely unprotected climbing up the arete with occasional gear opportunities mostly in horizontal cracks. You might want to double up those placements for some added security, too. Cast off again on the exposed arete, with a few 20 foot runouts.

Starting at the base of the wall, climb the arete directly up to a belay slightly off-route at the tree, or belay off gear near or above the tree. The second pitch is much more clean, fun, and exposed.

Location 

Starts just left of the gaping "4th class" gully that marks the rightmost end of the main wall.

2 bolt anchor w/chains at the top of the route, and a slung oak tree halfway down the gully make for a quick descent. 2- 30m raps will get you down to the base.

Protection 

A set of nuts and single set of cams from #0 TCU to 2 camalot will give you all the protection for the limited opportunities available. 2 bolt chain anchor on top.

Some ant spray might be nice at the top :)


Photos of Edge of Night Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finally got some gear! Erik H on lead
Finally got some gear! Erik H on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: An arête
An arête
Rock Climbing Photo: Edge of Night (5.7 R) follows the red line up the ...
BETA PHOTO: Edge of Night (5.7 R) follows the red line up the ...

Comments on Edge of Night Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard Shore
Feb 14, 2011

This is one of the most visually appealing routes on the Black Wall; second only to the Ending Crack.

While the climbing is relatively easy, the leader must not fall. Simple.

May it forever remain bolt-free (with the exception of the rap anchor, which I assume was placed ONLY to save the small pine tree atop the route).
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
May 22, 2017

The first rap from the top chain anchor is 35m a 60m rope won't get you to the tree. The first pitch is only 85' or 90'
Thank you Alex Barnett for helping me clean the choss and liken off this route. Much better with the huge run outs. Way more solid.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About