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Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 
Buccaneer S 
Dynabolt Gold S 
Edge-a-Sketch S 
Glory and Consequence S 
La Escalada S 
Ledgends of Limonite S 
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 
Little T-Bone T 
Momma Cindy S 
Ohio Arts S 
Touch of Grey S 
Weapons of Mass Deception T 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: J.J. - 2004
Page Views: 2,170
Submitted By: Adam Beck on Jan 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (136)
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Thin crimpers and long reaches! There is a plate below this route labeling "Ohio Arts" (5.12b). This is actually the 3-bolt pitch right above Edge-a-Sketch.


Near the center of the wall.


8 bolts

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By ethlogo
Apr 13, 2012

This route is over rated at 11a. 11b is silly.
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
May 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A soft 11a
From: michigan
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

another vote for soft. good movements though, and a fun start!
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Most fun route on this section of cliff that I did, especially the start. Great for early 11 leaders. It's soft. Just stick clip it and give it a go.
By Josh Nunley
Oct 30, 2014

Are you people crazy? I'm sick of the sandbags. This could possibly be soft at 11b but it's solid 11-
By Adam Beck
From: Nashville, TN
May 5, 2015

I think the rating is congruent with Muir Valley ratings.
By Parker Wrozek
From: Denver, CO
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a really great line. 11a I would say (especially if you don't stick clip the bottom) but you are out of the hard moves right away. Probably more like 10c/d the rest of the way if you like slabby stuff.

I would suggest stick clipping this though, the bottom is a bit tough.
By S. Neoh
Oct 26, 2015

Very good route. Stick clip recommended. .11a seems fair but the top 1/3 is much easier than .11a.
By Jacob Sustrich
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Note: consider stick clipping the second bolt - I found the moves up to it pretty tough and although the clipping hold is good, it would put you in grounder territory.
By Patti Degner
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A fun V2/3 boulder problem leads to technical, vertical climbing that gradually lets up after the 4th or 5th bolt. Very fun climb. Consider stick-clipping the first or second bolt.

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