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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson - 2004
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: e Dixon on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Climb up the pocketed face to the left-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.


When you reach the wall go right past "No Bones About It" to the obvious dihedral.


(1) set of stoppers, (1) set Camalots #.3 - #75

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By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 24, 2011

smeary layback... don't climb if wet
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

funky route with a funky anchor position. watch the pull.

used gear from fingers to thin hands, double set and a small stopper or two.

hard for 5.7.
By michaeltarne
Oct 22, 2013

Not recommended for a newer leader- gear is kinda funky and mostly small.
By artem Vasilyev
Sep 9, 2015

Kinda run out if you don't bring enough of the right gear. Crack is shallow and flaring, placements are pods that take very specific small cams. .75 down low and bottom section. .3-.4 size cams for the top section, insecure placements besides a single pod that inspires confidence.

Nuts and tricams would work fairly well on this route. Likely scary for a new leader, but the 25 foot runout to the top was very fun imo.

Closer to 5.8 no doubt. Harder than Indecision down the wall (Which is 5.8 but honestly more like 5.6/7 ish)
By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Like other have said, weird gear. Take tricams thru brown, nuts and .75 - 3 Camalot. Expect to spend more time on gear than climbing.

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