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BETA PHOTO: Echo Dancer 5.9+, Tongue of Death 5.9, Yabbadabbad...
A hard move off the ground past a bolt gets you into the chimney/corner that you can stem and layback all the way to the belay. Above the third bolt, traverse left to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge. (5.8---120 ft.)
Follow left-curving flake directly above belay for about 15 ft. until you can reach right to clip a bolt and make a tricky traverse right (crux) to a sloping ledge. Up a short crack, then traverse right past a bolt under the roof to a good stopper placement at the corner (long slings on this and bolt under roof!) Up to a bolt protecting a left traverse onto better rock then straight up past one more bolt and chickenheads to a 2-bolt belay. (5.9---140 ft.)
Rap the route with double-ropes or walk off left.
This rock is in Sabino Canyon on the opposite side of the canyon from the Thimble and Whipple Wall. Start hiking at Tram Stop 8 where the old parking lot and restrooms are located. Visible from here is a side drainage that drops down into Sabino Creek. At the top of the drainage on the ridge is the rock, marked by a prominent , left-facing corner/crack splitting the middle of the rock and 2 twin, curving dihedrals on the top right. This route climbs the corner then crosses under the final roof, exiting out right, then up the face.
Head across Sabino Creek and straight up side drainage. About halfway up, after a rocky ridge meets the drainage on the left, hang a left and continue up freshly scoured drainage toward rock. Keep an eye out for cairns heading out left as you near the rock. Allow 1 hr. if you splurge on the tram ride ($8.00 cuts out 7 extra miles of walking.)
- Standard backcountry rack, include a large (#4) cam.
- *Dont forget to check out the excellent echoes that bounce off Whipple and Kor.
BETA PHOTO: J. Fox at the crux of pitch 1.
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Two pitches of varied and interesting climbing. Another good route (as yet unnamed) on the same formation makes the walk up almost worth it. For backcountry enthusiasts, with a taste for adventure.