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Ebola 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 510'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bernabe Fernandez, Miguel Moya
Season: winter
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Andrey Poletayev on Dec 30, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom with the first three anchors.

Description 

The fun direct line just right of the rappel descent from Amptrax, bolted by Bernabe Fernandez. The climbing is varied with short, well-defined cruxes that come at the beginning of pitches 3 and 4, and nice belay locations. A 70m rope is necessary to rappel the route.

p1: 5.7 (4+), start by climbing the left side of a small buttress to a bolts and chain anchor visible from the ground next to a bush.

p2: 5.9 (5+), take the right and more direct of two available bolt lines. You should be going straight up, not up and left. A more technical pitch on better rock. Anchor in a nice alcove 10-15 feet left of a big bush.

p3: 5.10 (6a+), move left and up to get out of the alcove and over the bulge for the crux of the pitch, then continue straight up to another alcove with great technical climbing. The holds are all there if not immediately visible.

p4: 5.10d (6b+), again move left and up out of the alcove, then right and over the bulge to a pinch and lieback rib for a fun and powerful crux sequence. Continue straight up the vertical grey wall as the holds get larger, although there is at some point another wingspan horizontal move.

p5: 5.8 (5), continue straight up as the rock becomes less steep to meet up with Amptrax on the top.

Here is the description in Spanish: bernabefernandez.com/mis-vias/...

Location 

Starts at a small buttress to the right of Amptrax, with the first pitch's anchors visible from the ground just left of a bush. Up on the wall, there is a large brown cavern above the corner/gully on the right with a bush in it. It is impossible to miss; the route goes just left of this large feature.

Protection 

18 quickdraws, all anchors are bolted. Rappel the route with a 70m rope, or do the long walkoff.


Photos of Ebola Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivo following the 6b+ crux
Ivo following the 6b+ crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Following pitch 3 on my way to lead the crux
Following pitch 3 on my way to lead the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo from the man who bolted it! Ebola line ...
BETA PHOTO: Route topo from the man who bolted it! Ebola line ...

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