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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum & Nick Badyrka, April 1977
Page Views: 11,846
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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I'm embarrassed to admit this season was my first ...


This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect. Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.

The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing 20' past the last bolt. Four stars out of five.


On the outer (west) face of the EBGB Block Area.


5 bolts to a bolted anchor which is located in the center of the block. The rap anchor is on the south face at the lip. All bolts are 3/8".

Photos of EBGB's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on EBGB's Photo by Brent Gonzales
Chris on EBGB's Photo by Brent Gonzales
Rock Climbing Photo: ebgb's
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's
Mike Holley Finishing up EBGB's
Rock Climbing Photo: photo taken by Thanh Dinh
photo taken by Thanh Dinh
Rock Climbing Photo: Two unknown climbers on the brutally hard start.
Two unknown climbers on the brutally hard start.
Rock Climbing Photo: EBGB block getting the last light
EBGB block getting the last light
Rock Climbing Photo: EBGB Boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: EBGBs
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick starting EBGB's with the mantle move.
Rick starting EBGB's with the mantle move.
Rock Climbing Photo: John rocking the American flag jacket on the sharp...
John rocking the American flag jacket on the sharp...
Rock Climbing Photo: the sharp end!
the sharp end!
Rock Climbing Photo: EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, w...
EBGBs (circa 1983). Just passing the third bolt, w...
Rock Climbing Photo: EBGB's topo

Comments on EBGB's Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2017
By C Miller
From: CA
Jul 11, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Around 1986 or so a climber fell off the finishing holds and sheared through the eyehole of the old Houser hanger (homemade soft aluminium) resulting in an extra long fall. Back in the old days you would see these homemade hangers on many classic routes stamped with Dave Houser's intitials (DPH). On certain bolts that saw a lot of falls you would see these hangers with elongated eyes where the force of repeated falls had stretched the metal like taffy!
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 5, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

After a most puzzling start, involving a belly roll, the climb turns into a memorable outing up a huge boulder stacked above the abyss.

For me is was essentially brain exploding smearing on a rippled steep face, with the occasional "whew" when clipping the bolts, of which there are very few.

Don't relax 'till you're standing on the top!

Justifiably, one of the ten 5.10s. Essential exposed face climbing.

The start was way tough.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 10, 2003

just a question.....Why is the one climb called ebgbs it seems like such astrange name? -Steve
By Murf
Feb 10, 2003

Think "heebie-geebies" as in having the heebie-jeebies ( ). Now think about climbing shoe names in 1977.
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 10, 2003

There was a very famous punk club in New York City's East Village called CBGB's around the time this climb was put up -- bands that got there start there included Blondie, the Talking Heads, the Ramones, and the New York Dolls. For that matter, it's still around. I always figured that EBGB's was a play on that ...
By Randy
Nov 6, 2003

While the name EBGBs is a pun (a play on the expression Heebee Jeebees), that is NOT the orgin of the name. Interesting story, you see chboi JHAN gosn KFJirjak fdjkp fjoaj dfkjpo fljo motive didn't fit well!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2008

this is a trad climb? o.O
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 22, 2009

wasn't this soloed by that guy in return 2 sender?
Mar 23, 2009

I have pics of Michael Reardon soloing this rig. Yipes!! I was scared on toprope!
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 11, 2012

Amazingly Fun Route!! A Demanding and awkward full body mantle, involving not only strength but balance leads to fun thin and balancey face climbing! The Run outs are splendid with bolts right where you need them and devoid where you don't! Certainly an excellent J-Tree .1o face route!
By Tradiban
Nov 26, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A must do. I found the mantle interesting but not awkward. Crux right at the last bolt and the run-out pretty tame. Make the right decisions on direction at the top and it's a breeze.
By Richardo
Jan 16, 2014

The start is 10d for sure but the slab climbing is easy for grade in Jtree
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hibbitty Gibbitties just before the top of the climb for sure (last smear way above the bolt)!
By Crusher420
Jan 6, 2015

Got to the top and there was a fresh pile of crap. Someone really got the EBJBs HAHAHA! As for the climbing just crimp and do a pull up. Get on this rig :)
By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Dec 3, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Definitely commands respect. Bolts where you need them. Don't get blown off this beautiful, balancy climb.
By Ice4life
From: US
Dec 14, 2016

start is WTF head scratching and hole puckering please don't fall please don't fall. last bolt and anchors would suck to fall at....
By Francois Cote
Apr 1, 2017

I climbed this route a week ago. In my opinion, the crux was right at the end, and not only because of the runout. I didn't find the mantle at the start to be bad at all but those smears right before pulling the lip gave me a hard time. That being said, I have not climbed much at J tree so I am not used to this style of friction climbing.

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