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Unsorted Routes:

Eat Right 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Haas, 7/2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces East, in tree shade.
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Eat Left (Blue) and Eat Right (Red)...

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  • Description 

    Eat Right is a route that climbs and protects better than it would seem upon first glance. If it were twice as long, I'd give it another star. As is, it is actually a good 'half pitch' in length.

    Start off on 2 thin and intermittent cracks at the base of the wall, and get established a few feet up (5.9 to get on the wall) and place some reasonable gear. Start working your way up the twin seams, mostly on the right at first but occasionally on the left. Thin cams are the best protection, being 1st knuckle-sized most of the time. As you get toward the top, the right seam ends, and you pop left to a great lock and more gear on the right seam, just before the final bulge. This is the crux. It could be, perhaps, avoided by traversing out of the right cracks and into the leftmost one (flaring hand crack) earlier on and keep the difficulty at 10a or so.

    Top out though a few lower angle moves and onto the big ledge, and belay at the large healthy tree. A 50' rap puts you back on the ground.

    Location 

    This route lies just around the left of Ms. Fanny Le Pump and Othello, on the East-Facing aspect of the lower buttress. About 50' up that side, the wall goes from VERY short to FAIRLY short. A set of 3 cracks splits the wall, leading up to a ledge with a hefty tree, and now also an anchor on that tree (slings and rings). Eat Right follows the rightmost two of the three cracks, being the thin ones, to the top for about 40'. The tree lies 10' back and above the ledge.

    Protection 

    A double set of small cams and a few stoppers should do. I mused that you could probably pro it up pretty well on nothing but green and yellow aliens, given what I had placed, which was mostly that (2 each).


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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 9, 2015

    By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.'

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