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Eat My Lichen 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: C. Moyer, 1987
Season: faces S/SE, shaded in winter though
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 5, 2017

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  • Description 

    This is a surprisingly good climb with good rock. It needed a bit of cleaning and could use a little more, but overall it is in good shape. The splitter hand crack midway through was a pleasant surprise.

    Climb up opposing features and up into a curving thin dihedral. A few nut or small cam placements about 5 meters up provide good protection for getting into the cracks and corners. Place a few pieces, then head right across a wide crack (6" pro optional) onto good face holds and another crack. Use this to get up into the corner and protect again, heading up to reach a surprising splitter handcrack (2.5"). Take this up to a roof, going right under a roof, protecting with smaller cams. Go up and right of the roof into another right-facing corner, reaching a ledge after about 100'. Nut placements abound throughout, mostly for larger stoppers.

    Head back almost into the gully to build a belay with a long cordalete on a flake on the wall beside you plus a few cams in a crack.

    Walk/scramble off as if descending from the Berlin Wall (5.0) to the S/SW to the base of the WWW at its left side.

    Location 

    This climb is on the right hand side of Krishna, just left of the gully up into the Berlin Wall.

    Protection 

    A handful of larger stoppers and even hexes if desired, to supplement a single run of cams from small to 3". One 6" piece (i.e. #6 C4 Camalot) optional may help the nerves for shorter leaders who can't reach the jug across the wide spot.

    Be sure to take plenty of slings, as the climb dodges left and right to good jams and pro here and there.

    Anchor up and over almost into the gully on a long cordalette and a few cams for pro.


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