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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Fritz Weissner and Hans Kraus
Page Views: 7,978
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (101)
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Sometimes climbers just seem to belong - to be par...

Description 

The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.

P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).

P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.

P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.

Location 

Same start as Arrow.

Protection 

Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the top, make the final topout and then walk back (left) over to the Arrow area.


Photos of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim thinkin about the moves to the other corner.
Jim thinkin about the moves to the other corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Hoste on the first pitch of Easy V. May 2017.
Jim Hoste on the first pitch of Easy V. May 2017.
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 "v"
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2 "v"
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch.  Crux hint: think "mantle"
BETA PHOTO: Third pitch. Crux hint: think "mantle"
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the first belay ledge
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the first belay ledge

Comments on Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) Add Comment
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Very fun route for the grade, nicer than some of the 5.5 pitches I've been on at the Gunks. Agree that the final pitch would be a real rude awakening for a 5.3 leader.
By John Peterson
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

There's plenty of 5.3 leaders at the Gunks! It's probably the only climbing area where anyone would argue about whether a route is 5.3 or 5.4.

One thing about the last pitch of Easy V is that it scares seconds as well as leaders. Even though the crux is inside a chimney with almost no exposure it's scary. I've seen a number of seconds turn into screaming, blubbering, moaning wrecks there after having no problem with the first pitch. The move is only 5.3 but it's not a normal "reach up for the next hold" sort of place.
By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

As a beginner trad leader, I absolutely loved this route. Well within my ability with many opportunities to practice placing pro. Long, easy, fun, and well-protected. Unlike many other beginner routes, this one is still loads of fun despite the grade. A great introduction to leading at the Gunks.
By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2010

I thought this climb was super easy. I am a complete beginner (First year climbing) and to me, P3 was actually easier than P1. However, when I was up there, we had real trouble finding the start. What I think is that the actual P3 (what seems to match the written description in the gray Dick) looks less traveled (not quite as clean) than a variation which appears to match the photo in the gray Dick. The two starts are only about eight feet apart, and we went with the one on the left. It was a cakewalk. The one on the right was clean as a whistle, so it sees a lot of traffic, but it seems much harder looking up from the bottom.
By Puzman puziss
Apr 30, 2011

Did this one today- P1 was wet but otherwise has nice climbing; seems if you stay left there's better pro. P3 is definitely a good way to get a beginning leader to soil his pants! I totally agree with the original description that 5.3 "is a frikken joke" (and my old copy of Swain calls it a "5.2+"!). The crux move out of the chimney felt harder than any 5.4 I've done at the Gunks, harder than Horseman or Sixish for that matter. Overall has nice climbing, good exposure on P3, and clean rock.
By Kurtz
Jun 21, 2015

It's easy to stop too soon on P3. It seems you're at the top then, after you build your anchor, you notice there's another 25 ft. of climbing.
By RichBeBe
From: New York City, NY
Nov 14, 2015

I agree with the "oops" finish. I did P1+2 together to GT ledge. Then I did P3, and as a new leader I was hesitant in the chimney, but it wasn't hard, just heady. Sadly I stopped before the top on a ledge and built an anchor and brought my second up. Then I realized there was no way down, so did the last 25 feet, and walked to the Arrow anchors.
By Oma Kassim
Mar 14, 2016

This route was great! I did P1&2 together to the GT ledge (didn't realize it was 2 separate pitches), which was a nice corner climb but P3 is definitely the money pitch. Loved pulling out around the corner on P3. I'm a newer leader and I thought it was totally fine and true to the grade. I did get a little lost up top - the tree that it says to belay at is definitely dead. What I did was top out (the true top, so you're near level with the arrow rappels which are climber's left) and slung a giant pine tree. From here, you can lower yourself 20' back down on a munter so you can belay up/communicate with your follower.
By alexd81
Aug 27, 2017

P3 (really P2) crux is very unique, but not very physically strenuous, so I think the rating is reasonable. I found it useful to press my shoulders into the rock to jam myself into the opening while I placed a sweet green camalot sized piece into a horizontal and felt around for holds before rounding the corner. I don't think anyone should have bejeezuz scared out of them leading it as the route descriptions says. The gear is great. Last pitch is as safe of a lead as they come. Much more so than the pitch to the GT ledge.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Sep 5, 2017
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

As of 9/1/17, there is (still) a loose block on the first pitch the size of a mini-fridge. It's roughly 3/4 of the way up the pitch and is extremely loose.

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