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Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Fritz Weissner and Hans Kraus
Page Views: 7,776
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Sometimes climbers just seem to belong - to be par...


The first pitch of Easy V is beautiful, easy climbing; it's a new favorite of mine for beginner climbers. The holds are generally buckets, and the feet are always there. There's an obvious crux half-way up, but with a little thought a beginner would have no problem. The belay anchor is best built off to the climber's right, even though the route comes up to the climber's left. There's a bolted rappel station climber's far left; a 60m rope will bring you back to some ledges above the pathway, with an easy scramble down.

P1: Go up right and follow the huge corner to the GT Ledge. Observe the fixed ring piton left by the first ascent party (it's now over 60 years old).

P2 involves walking about 60 feet to the right along the GT Ledge. P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.

P3 is a frikken joke at 5.3. Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them. It's an interesting sequence, and the two cruxes are protected, but I'd give the moves at least 5.5 due to the awkwardness.


Same start as Arrow.


Good protection throughout the route, with the majority being smaller pieces. Gear anchors at each belay. From the top, make the final topout and then walk back (left) over to the Arrow area.

Photos of Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim thinkin about the moves to the other corner.
Jim thinkin about the moves to the other corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Hoste on the first pitch of Easy V. May 2017.
Jim Hoste on the first pitch of Easy V. May 2017.
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 "v"
BETA PHOTO: pitch 2 "v"
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Third pitch.  Crux hint: think "mantle"
BETA PHOTO: Third pitch. Crux hint: think "mantle"
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the first belay ledge
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the first belay ledge

Comments on Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 7, 2016
By losbill
Aug 18, 2007

Love your comment about P3! I was seconding a new leader on the climb a few days ago. I had not done it previously. We had some trouble finding the start to P3 mainly because I couldn't believe what I was looking up at was rated 5.3!

I thought the moves just before and through the chimney/cleft were technically demanding at the 5.5 level as well as pretty awkward.

My leader did the Cold Turkeys variation, staying on the nose until forced left by increased difficult, on P1 and it was good.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Very fun route for the grade, nicer than some of the 5.5 pitches I've been on at the Gunks. Agree that the final pitch would be a real rude awakening for a 5.3 leader.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 26, 2008

"Any 5.3 leader attempting this pitch is going to have the everliving bejeezuz scared out of them."

do 5.3 leaders actually exist?
By John Peterson
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

There's plenty of 5.3 leaders at the Gunks! It's probably the only climbing area where anyone would argue about whether a route is 5.3 or 5.4.

One thing about the last pitch of Easy V is that it scares seconds as well as leaders. Even though the crux is inside a chimney with almost no exposure it's scary. I've seen a number of seconds turn into screaming, blubbering, moaning wrecks there after having no problem with the first pitch. The move is only 5.3 but it's not a normal "reach up for the next hold" sort of place.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009

This is a great climb. P1 is great for new leaders, there are placements everywhere. P3 is interesting, but not hard. I solid 5.3 leader would have no problem with P3. I thought this was a delightful climb from bottom to top. Just a mellow corner up to an interesting 3rd pitch.
By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

As a beginner trad leader, I absolutely loved this route. Well within my ability with many opportunities to practice placing pro. Long, easy, fun, and well-protected. Unlike many other beginner routes, this one is still loads of fun despite the grade. A great introduction to leading at the Gunks.
By losbill
Sep 6, 2010

RF - Any specific comments regarding the third pitch? Thanks
By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2010

I thought this climb was super easy. I am a complete beginner (First year climbing) and to me, P3 was actually easier than P1. However, when I was up there, we had real trouble finding the start. What I think is that the actual P3 (what seems to match the written description in the gray Dick) looks less traveled (not quite as clean) than a variation which appears to match the photo in the gray Dick. The two starts are only about eight feet apart, and we went with the one on the left. It was a cakewalk. The one on the right was clean as a whistle, so it sees a lot of traffic, but it seems much harder looking up from the bottom.
By Puzman puziss
Apr 30, 2011

Did this one today- P1 was wet but otherwise has nice climbing; seems if you stay left there's better pro. P3 is definitely a good way to get a beginning leader to soil his pants! I totally agree with the original description that 5.3 "is a frikken joke" (and my old copy of Swain calls it a "5.2+"!). The crux move out of the chimney felt harder than any 5.4 I've done at the Gunks, harder than Horseman or Sixish for that matter. Overall has nice climbing, good exposure on P3, and clean rock.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Although I really liked P3, the moves are closer to 5.6 than 5.3

I was with a returning-to-leading climber and she bailed, which meant I had to finish the pitch. Rock climbing is risky and thank god for mountain project for setting the record straight.
By kenr
Jun 13, 2012

P1 is about the nicest 5.2 in the Gunks (without hiking all the way out to Casa Emilio, which lots of people feel is harder than 5.2). And with a nice rappel just a few feet to the left of the top of the pitch. It's almost too bad we can't have a separate page on MountainProject just for P1, since P3 is completely different.
By aemerick
Jul 30, 2014

Just did this today (7/29/14) as my first Trad lead. I wanted to post to give people a heads up that the pine tree used for rapping off of the top of the last pitch looks like it got hit by lightning and is only partially alive. I used it but it may be good to continue up to the very top (an extra 15 ft of easy climbing) and use one of the other rappels (I think there is at least one tree there that takes you back to GT on the Arrow wall).

But about the climb. First pitch was a great first lead. It was easy enough that there really isn't any fall risk, and I could place gear with really nice footholds on both feet and usually with two hands free. Frankly though I thought the climbing in P3 was way more straightforward (but physically harder) than P1, and the placements also more straightforward. The crux here everyone is talking about on P3 was probably the most awkward move I've ever done and was hard for the grade. However, there are several very nice gear placements right at the crux, so I never felt unsafe.
By David Stowe
Jul 31, 2014

Aemerick congrats on your first lead. You can indeed very easily get to the bolted rap station at the top of Arrow if you climb Easy V to the top of the cliff. Two raps with a single and one rap with doubles.
By Kurtz
Jun 21, 2015

It's easy to stop too soon on P3. It seems you're at the top then, after you build your anchor, you notice there's another 25 ft. of climbing.
By RichBeBe
From: New York City, NY
Nov 14, 2015

I agree with the "oops" finish. I did P1+2 together to GT ledge. Then I did P3, and as a new leader I was hesitant in the chimney, but it wasn't hard, just heady. Sadly I stopped before the top on a ledge and built an anchor and brought my second up. Then I realized there was no way down, so did the last 25 feet, and walked to the Arrow anchors.
By Oma Kassim
Mar 14, 2016

This route was great! I did P1&2 together to the GT ledge (didn't realize it was 2 separate pitches), which was a nice corner climb but P3 is definitely the money pitch. Loved pulling out around the corner on P3. I'm a newer leader and I thought it was totally fine and true to the grade. I did get a little lost up top - the tree that it says to belay at is definitely dead. What I did was top out (the true top, so you're near level with the arrow rappels which are climber's left) and slung a giant pine tree. From here, you can lower yourself 20' back down on a munter so you can belay up/communicate with your follower.
By lchi
Jun 7, 2016

I got super lost trying to find the start of P3 this weekend - the rap anchors on a pine tree listed in the description at the beginning of P3 are no longer there. Make sure to check out the photos in MP of the start before starting this route. A more textual description - P3 begins after you round a corner on the GT ledge in a small grove of pine trees. Look for an off-width with a small roof overhead.

As for the end of P3 and the descent - there are no more rap anchors at the (now dead) pine tree. You'll need to climb the final ~20ft of slab to top out and walk-off the back to the Arrow rap anchors (about 100ft climber's left).
Thanks for the improvements -- I updated the description. JSH

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