Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Trifle Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Spankin' S 
Huge-a-thon S 
Pump-a-Lama S 

Easy Spankin' 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: John VanNostrand Jr on Jun 30, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Upper Easy Spankin' is yellow line.

Description 

Start just left (uphill) of Pump a Lama.

There is a shallow, cave-like feature with obvious crack here and there down low. The first bolt can be clipped from the ground, but it is better to stick clip the second bolt. The direct start is hard, and starting just left is more pleasant. Don’t worry you got 90 feet of technical, restless 5.12+ climbing to go. There are a couple cruxes. About 20 feet up coming over the lip of the overhanging rock is crimpy and in your face. The second crux is about 60 feet up, and there is a blank wall that is dead vertical with a few crimps on it and almost no feet. The last two bolts are challenging as well and are solid slightly overhanging 5.11 climbing. Towards the top, stay on route. Climbing right onto the arête is not recommended. This climb is hard the hole way with little rest. The draws are hard to hang in the cruxes. It is easy to climb Pump a Lama and continue up the extension (Pump a Lamanator) to the Easy Spankin' anchors and then hang the draws.

Historical note: Upper Easy Spankin' originally could of been done by jumping onto 30 Meters of Meatballs or by doing a variation that went right and stayed near the arête. The last bolt of the original right variation is now one of the anchor bolts. It avoids the dirty, runout at the top to the 30 Meters of Meatball anchors.

Location 

It is just left of Pump a Lama.

Protection 

12 bolts.


Photos of Easy Spankin' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route follows the yellow line.
Route follows the yellow line.

Comments on Easy Spankin' Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -