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Easy Skankin' 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Cecil and Justin Day, Nov 2004
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Charles Konopa on Apr 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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At the top of Easy Skankin' Dec 12, 2005.

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

  • **THIS ROUTE NO LONGER EXISTS***

For posterity's sake...


Start on a vertical wall on the left side, just outside of the cave. Follow the bolts and threads into the stalactites, being mindful of what you grab with your hands, feet, and legs. This is a fun place to get creative. Higher up in the cave I found a ledge that offered good rest with some stemming. Coming out of the cave at the lip was the best part. I found myself moving my hands down lower than my feet to get out of the cave. After making a move out of the cave, you're at the anchors.

For an option, there is another set of anchors about 10 feet higher with climbing also at 5.10b. A 60m rope was long enough, but tie knots in the ends to be safe...the ground one gets lowered to is angled.

As a 5.10 leader, this climb was my favorite from my 10 day stay in Railay.

Location 

The first bolt is on the left side, just outside of the cave. The route works its way up into the cave before popping out at the top. Rappel anchors at the lip, and a second set of rappel anchors about 10 feet higher.

Protection 

About 10 bolts/threads, and then the anchors. Two more to go another 10 feet up to a second set of anchors.


Photos of Easy Skankin' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up Easy Skankin' in the midst of the Stalac...
Midway up Easy Skankin' in the midst of the Stalac...

Comments on Easy Skankin' Add Comment
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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a decent route, but it would be really great if the rock quality was better.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Feb 14, 2014

This route isn't in my 8th edition King Climbers book. Where is it in relation to the other routes here?

Is it the same as Kaya?

What kind of bolts are on this route?
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2015

Kaya and Easy Skankin' are 2 different routes. Easy Skankin' was put up first and was quite popular for a year or 2. It went up the middle of the wall and through a canopy of delicate stalactites... It was considered the moderate route on the wall(6a) and many people climbed it because of the easy grade... Tom and Co decided to remove the stainless hangers and punch in these bolts instead of rebolting it with Titanium. The danger factor of belaying under people climbing through the precarious stalactites out weighed it's fun, moderate nature. SO, Easy Skankin' does not exist anymore! Kaya is the stellar line with the Ti bolts up the overhanging corner...

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