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Easy Skankin' 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sterling Keene, 1994
Page Views: 9,568
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 7, 2001

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Goofing around from the kneebar in the middle of t...


How about six stars on a three star scale? Smack dab in the middle of the Anti-Phil is a pounded out bit of turf with a dozen killer lines firing straight off the turf. Easy Skankin' is in the left side of this cluster. Scramble up a bit to the first clip and follow a complex face to a grey/blue head wall. The route never gets very steep, although it feels as though it were a bit past vertical most of the way (the rope can't lie however, and the net gain in angle is pretty small). Pick up some remarkable polished pockets in this grey sector. If you still have the guns, power up past the first double bolt anchor on more cruxy (5.12a?) moves to a second anchor where the rock turns tan in color. With excellent stone, high continuity, and loads of power Easy Skankin must rank as one of the best for its grade at Rifle. If anyone climbing at Rifle still climbs lowly 5.12s, then this is a must do. I get itchy hands just thinking about those upper pockets.


Bring 12 to 15 draws and a 60 meter rope. This route can be done as a short variation with a 50 meter rope or continued (best)- with the 60 meter rope necessary for a single rap to the ground.

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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 21, 2002

Lowly 12s? Keep in mind that many people can't even climb in Rifle because there is nothing at their level. Lowly 12s, my @ss.
By richard magill
Sep 23, 2002

Richard Wright's comment about the route being "lowly" is decidedly tongue in cheek. This is a great line with fantastic steep moves on great stone - the only problem is that you won't necessarily get much time to work out the moves. Hordes of 5.13 climbers line up here to do an "easy warmup" before they move on to "real routes". Everyone will get pissed at you if you try to make their cruiser warmup into your all-day project.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 24, 2002

Re: the previous comment. If you want to work a 5.12 project at Rifle, or anywhere else. Go ahead. Put up the draws and work on the moves for as long as your belayer will allow you. Sure, there are people that may use your route as a warm-up. Hell, Sharma warmed up for Realization by doing a 5.13 barefoot. But no one (that I know) is going to tell you to "hurry up" or "get off their warm up". Enjoy your route.

Sincerely, A 5.13 Rifle climber.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 24, 2002

Richard's comment is pretty much B.S. (or maybe he's kidding... I can't tell). If you want to project Easy Skankin' go right ahead... its among the best routes for the grade at Rifle. It isn't a jug haul so its a poor warm-up for a climber who projects the other 13s on the wall. Come to think of it, the anti-Phil is a poor crag to warm-up on for anyone (that is who aren't pulling 13+).
By richard magill
Sep 24, 2002

Yes, I am just kidding.

This is a great line and is one of the few things at Anti-phil that isn't just sick hard.
By Anonymous Coward
May 31, 2005

Maybe not the best 5.12b in America but still quite good. Also not very hard for the grade, lots of huge rests and no really hard moves.
By drewhouser
Dec 22, 2014

Interestingly enough, I am planning a trip to Red River Gorge and was reading up on their "classics" and best of the grade 5.12s, and low and behold a discussion of the best 5.12 in the country existed on a specific wall's page in the gorge. This climb was mentioned with no recourse. I have yet to get on it, but after reading that, I might be salivating slightly. Easy Skankin', here I come!

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