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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Easy Overhang 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Susanne Simon - 1941
Page Views: 11,055
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (160)
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My buddy Joe on his third outdoor pitch ever - Cru...

Description 

Fun climbing, Easy O works as a good novice lead or a warm-up for harder stuff.

P1 - Starting from the top of a pile of boulders, head up and left past a right-facing flake to a chimney. Climb the chimney; near its top, move left onto the face and up to a ledge (be careful of the plentiful loose rock). There are rappel bolts here. 5.1, 80'.

P2 - Move right on the ledge, then diagonal up and right to a left-facing corner and up to an overhang. Pass this overhang on the right and continue up to another overhang, then escape right to a small ledge (optional belay). Continue up the face to the top. 5.2, 80'.

Location 

Starts on top of the boulder pile right of Baby, and left of the striking crack and white face of Son of Easy O.

Descent: rappel from the pins at the end of the 2nd pitch, above Son of Easy O, or walk off via Uberfall Descent. There is also a bolted anchor at the midway ledge.

Protection 

Standard rack, no specialty gear needed. Shares anchors with Son of Easy O.


Photos of Easy Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at second pitch of Easy Overhang.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at second pitch of Easy Overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the belay ledge of Easy O, makes waiting...
View from the belay ledge of Easy O, makes waiting...
Rock Climbing Photo: An unknown climber on the ledge atop pitch one.
An unknown climber on the ledge atop pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2 First Pitch
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2 First Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenn learning DRT on Easy O
Jenn learning DRT on Easy O
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2
Paul Deagle - Easy O 5.2
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Easy O
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Easy O

Comments on Easy Overhang Add Comment
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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Fun easy route. Spring '77 took a girl up this and she literally froze at the second belay. (Small ledge, very exposed.) For about 30 seconds she just stared into space. Soloed a few times--once stoned, wearing work boots. I miss college....
By Jeff St. Pierre
Jun 17, 2010

Where else can a 5.2 get 3.5 stars? Gotta love the Gunks.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010

If it's raining but you've just gotta climb something, Easy O is a good route in wet conditions. Better than sitting inside wishing you were climbing, anyway.
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Nov 12, 2012

The anchor/rap station shared w/ son of easy o seems to have been replaced recently. 3 good looking angle pitons with chains. Still lots of loose gravel at the top, so be mindfull of those below if you opt for the top out.
By kenr
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

The new chains + rings at the optional belay 50 feet up on P2 (which is also the top anchor for Son of Easy O) makes it easy for the leader to stop there and maintain good communinication with a follower who might be having trouble with the overhang low on P2. Or having trouble with the slopy mantle just before the the optional belay.

I think the overhang on P2 is 5.2 only if the climber sees the best sequence (and is strong and confident). Otherwise could be troublesome for a beginner. Also the moves right off the ground on P1 could be tricky: Make sure you demonstrate them carefully if taking a beginner.

I find P1 to be more interesting and enjoyable than P2. P1 offers a variety of situatons inside the wide chimney and going around corners out onto the face, and finishes at a spacious ledge with a great view. While P2 has this odd overhang, and then what(?) - and seems like the first half of P2 has dirt on the holds.
By Skip Thompson
May 7, 2014

I climbed it yesterday, and thought the 5.3 "Indecent Exposure" variation made the whole climb totally worth it. If you like a little exposure for a set of 3-4 moves on the top of P1 of Son of Easy O, then edge out onto the face 15 ft. before getting to the optional belay station (with the chains and rap rings). Fun stuff.
By Steve Carcamo
Oct 28, 2016

I know who put in the three new pitons! My climbing mentor sent and told me about it. Pretty stoked find the right time to put it up myself. Putting up drunkards tomorrow.