Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | M. Brooks, 1981 |
Page Views: | 803 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 14, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This short and somewhat grungy pitch looks unattractive but has a few cool moves and a stumper crux. It is certainly no destination, but if you like doing committing thoughtful moves, it is worthy of the bother. The route generally is in the shade.
I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.
Easy Off ascends the northernmost section of Lower Peanuts Wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11", it felt like 5.10c.
Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to its edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.
From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.
To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.
I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.
Easy Off ascends the northernmost section of Lower Peanuts Wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11", it felt like 5.10c.
Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to its edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.
From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.
To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.
Protection
Despite apparently having had a bolt retro-added, this climb could still produce a fall resulting in some nasty twists or scrapes. You might not clip anything but fixed gear, but placing your own would be a good option to have, including to make a belay, so I have listed this route as trad.
Photos
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