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Easy multi pitch in El Potrero?
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Feb 12, 2016
Looking for beta on easy multi pitches in El Potrero. Maybe 5.7-5.8? I am taking my wife who is a beginner. Thanks! K2tbui
Joined Jun 26, 2012
51 points
Feb 13, 2016
First thing I'll say, is that I found the grades at EPC to be mostly on the soft side. So, you may find that routes up to 5.9 may be in range.

In the 5.8 and below range, though, there isn't a lot of multi-pitch. Options include:

Libertad (2 pitches, on a pillar), I think 5.6 (Ed's guide said 5.7) - Front side.
Crack Test Dummies (2 pitches). Hard 5.8 (for EPC). The Spires.
Yankee Clipper (first two pitches are 5.8). Jungle Wall.
The Flamingo Wall (first two pitches are 5.8) - Virgin Canyon

Maybe:
Space Boyz - first 4 pitches (5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9) - all seemed pretty soft.
Las Chimuelas (3 pitches, 5.8; 5.9; 5.8). Seemed soft for the grade to me. Jungle Wall.

Evil/Ramsay's Shenanigans link up: p1 (5.8) of evil, then P2 & P3 (5.9-, 5.9) of Ramsay's Shenanigans. They run a few feet from each other, and the switch-over at the belay is easy to do.

Avoid: Jungle Boy (2 pitches, 5.8/9, 5.6 - I couldn't pull the roof on P1.)

But, really, not a lot of choice in the 5.8 and below range.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points
Feb 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Outrage Wall. Potrero Chico, Mexico.
As above has said there isn't not a lot of multi easier than 9 in the Potrero. If she can follow 9's the options open up a little. Maybe check out some of the stuff in Los Lobos canyon, also the first few pitches of Estralita are pretty easy. Hard to find multi's under 9 that are sport anywhere. DrRockso
From Red River Gorge, KY
Joined Sep 3, 2013
195 points
Feb 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Take a look at Buzz Rock. I think the route "The Fez" might fit your bill. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Feb 14, 2016
Stich wrote:
Take a look at Buzz Rock. I think the route "The Fez" might fit your bill.


That looks to be more into the "if she's following 5.9" range. I see it graded as a 5.10, though I don't know how hard a 5.10 it is.

Estrellita is the "classic" easy multi-pitch at EPC. It has a couple 5.11 variants, so sometimes is listed at this grade -- but the most commonly climbed variant is nominally 5.10b. I say nominally, as the crux 10b section can be bypassed on 5.7ish jugs about 2 yards off route; and most of the climb is not even sustained 5.9. And, it is long; and reaches a lovely ridge-summit with palm tree blowing in the wind.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points
Feb 14, 2016
As others have said, not much multi-pitch in those grades, but the grades are generally pretty soft, so you might find you can climb harder than you're used to. There's also plenty of moderate single pitch to accustom yourselves to the rock and grades.

Keep in mind that all the long routes have to be rapped to get down, so make sure your wife is up for that. For instance, the rappel off Estrellita involves maneuvering around a slung palm tree in the middle of the cliff. Not really too hard to deal with, but could be intimidating for an inexperienced climber.

Have a great time!
grant kendrick
From northampton, ma
Joined Apr 10, 2013
100 points
Feb 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Outrage Wall. Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Estralita also has one rap that is super easy to get your rope snagged. Ask me how I know! DrRockso
From Red River Gorge, KY
Joined Sep 3, 2013
195 points
Feb 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Buzz Rock was super easy as I recall. It's seldom crowded, too. The rappels on Estrellita are quite spooky for a beginner. Several involve hanging rap stations. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Feb 16, 2016
Cactus pile is a good option. Far left end of the mota wall. Rap from the top of the third pitch. WMcD
Joined Aug 15, 2007
194 points
Feb 16, 2016
WMcD wrote:
Cactus pile is a good option. Far left end of the mota wall. Rap from the top of the third pitch.


I think pitch 3 is 5.10b, and the others are 5.9 or so. This, again, is in the "if the 5.9s are soft enough..." category.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points


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